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Painting skirting, doors etc. Whats the fastest way?
SMW87
Posts: 94 Forumite
Hi all,
So I am now at the stage where the entire house walls have been painted, I have sanded the trim and now its time to get painting the trim, doors and banisters for 4 bedrooms, kitchen, living room, halls, stairs, and landing.
I have been dreading this!
I understand that tape below the skirting and loading the brish very lightly will prevent paint touching the floor, but what is the best/fastest way to prevent it from touch the wall above? I used low tack tape recently to cut in on a feature wall and it pulled some of the fully cured paint underneath off. Will I have to tape and remove teh tape between every coat too or can I can on until the top coat is done? Or would it just be faster to paint using a paint guard and moving along the top of the skirting while wiping clean?
I paint to do one coat of acylric primer followed by 2 coats of water based satin.
I know this is a difficult question to ask...but any idea how long you think a job like this would take? a few days a couple of evenings be enough? I have friends offering to help but im unsure if this is the jobto rope in friends for, dont want to spend as long touching up lol.
Thanks
S
So I am now at the stage where the entire house walls have been painted, I have sanded the trim and now its time to get painting the trim, doors and banisters for 4 bedrooms, kitchen, living room, halls, stairs, and landing.
I have been dreading this!
I understand that tape below the skirting and loading the brish very lightly will prevent paint touching the floor, but what is the best/fastest way to prevent it from touch the wall above? I used low tack tape recently to cut in on a feature wall and it pulled some of the fully cured paint underneath off. Will I have to tape and remove teh tape between every coat too or can I can on until the top coat is done? Or would it just be faster to paint using a paint guard and moving along the top of the skirting while wiping clean?
I paint to do one coat of acylric primer followed by 2 coats of water based satin.
I know this is a difficult question to ask...but any idea how long you think a job like this would take? a few days a couple of evenings be enough? I have friends offering to help but im unsure if this is the jobto rope in friends for, dont want to spend as long touching up lol.
Thanks
S
0
Comments
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I saw this episode of Mr Bean once where he used an explosive placed in a paint can to paint a whole room. If we assume that the episode is 100% authentic (and it seemed a pretty reliable), then even with the added masking time for all the walls, it is easily the fastest way.Painting skirting, doors etc. Whats the fastest way?
I'll let somebody with more experience answer the rest of your questions.
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I think the fastest is to learn to cut in,
once you get good better/quicker than tape and fixing up the mess that will leave when done
With a whole house start with the room that matter least and work towards the ones you want perfect(best).
practice on the top of the door architrave you can't see that bit.0 -
Yeh i agree the quickest way is to not use masking tape. Roller where you can (wide skirts and door linings).
My fiancee managed to gloss our entire house in the time it took me to go the local hardware shop (5 minutes). Doesnt have to take long, just depends how good you want it to look. Obviously i spent the weekend sorting it all out.0 -
getmore4less wrote: »I think the fastest is to learn to cut in,
once you get good better/quicker than tape and fixing up the mess that will leave when done
With a whole house start with the room that matter least and work towards the ones you want perfect(best).
practice on the top of the door architrave you can't see that bit.
Good advice. Cutting in takes a little practice but is quickly mastered and miles better than faffing about with tapeYou can pick your friends and you can pick your nose but you can't pick your friend's nose.0 -
Yes another vote from me not to use tape.
What paint are you using? I find satin quicker and easier to work with than gloss. I haven't tried eggshell but assume that'd be even easier although not such a hard finish so suffers from knocks and chips more.0 -
My last lot of woodwork was done in dulux diamond matt will do the rest using the same probably thinned a bit.
Hall stairs landing were done gloss to reflect more light.0 -
Rain_Shadow wrote: »Good advice. Cutting in takes a little practice but is quickly mastered and miles better than faffing about with tape
I also try not to overpaint so cut the ceiling/coving to the wall then the wall to the ceiling/coving.
Lots of practice with 2 coats and less risk of overpaint layers showing.
Same with wall to woodwork.
Given the prep is the key to a good finish takes a lot of time seems a shame to rush the final brush strokes.0 -
And get a decent brush. You need an angled brush for cutting in, made by a good maker, maybe Harris or similar. They're more expensive but worth it.getmore4less wrote: »I think the fastest is to learn to cut in,
once you get good better/quicker than tape and fixing up the mess that will leave when done0 -
And get a decent brush. You need an angled brush for cutting in, made by a good maker, maybe Harris or similar. They're more expensive but worth it.
You don't need an angled brush to cut in, it's better if you use a worn in brush. I agree use a decent brush, something like a Hamilton, Picasso or Purdy and not a Harris.0 -
Agreed. Cut in with a warn in brush, non-angled, and wider than 2.5 inches.
When I gloss I tend to use Dulux wood and metal primer (as I still have loads left!) and although it takes a while as it's oil based, it leaves a smooth flat surface. I then use Dulux diamond (1 coat) over the top. This is very easy to apply and doesn't need to be painted on very thick at all.0
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