Changing worktops-do the units have to come out?

ferry

We are considering changing our worktops. There are two runs in an L shape.
Whats the level of difficulty in having these changed?

The job would be handled by a pro anyway but just so im clear Will the units below them need to come out to do this?

cheers

cyclonebri1

No, simple as that.;);)

Furts

Some worktops are glued or sealed to the base units, hence removal means damage or destruction of the base units. For example, I have Silestone worktops and these are bonded to the units with silicone sealant. As a further example I have also come across melamine worktops Gripfilled to the base units.

Another issue is the upstand detail. Worktop removal can damage walls, for example the worktops run under the kitchen wall tiles. So factor in any work needed here.

cyclonebri1

Furts wrote: »

Some worktops are glued or sealed to the base units, hence removal means damage or destruction of the base units. For example, I have Silestone worktops and these are bonded to the units with silicone sealant. As a further example I have also come across melamine worktops Gripfilled to the base units.

Another issue is the upstand detail. Worktop removal can damage walls, for example the worktops run under the kitchen wall tiles. So factor in any work needed here.

I'll agree to differ on that mate, most decent worktops "stay by gravity", at most a few "token" screws through crappy brackets into chipboard tops.

Regarding silicone, that won't pull the carcases. Gripfill?, cut either side and lever away, really should not cause noticeable or effective damage.

Odds on the OP's fall into that category?, especially if they do need replacement, albeit you are right to point out the possibility, ;)

Smells of B4Q to me:A

Furts

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

I'll agree to differ on that mate, most decent worktops "stay by gravity", at most a few "token" screws through crappy brackets into chipboard tops.

Regarding silicone, that won't pull the carcases. Gripfill?, cut either side and lever away, really should not cause noticeable or effective damage.

Odds on the OP's fall into that category?, especially if they do need replacement, albeit you are right to point out the possibility, ;)

Smells of B4Q to me:A

We will not fall out over this! I would add all quartz worktops should be bedded and adhered to the units below. Further the units should have tops on them in order to support the worktops and provide a bed for the adhesive. Normal silicone is not used, and the bottom line is removal of such worktops will cause damage to the units.

Many companies cover the worktops as a quick fix, tarting up, of kitchens in order to prevent problems with removing worktops and the damage that will cause.

cyclonebri1

Furts wrote: »

We will not fall out over this! I would add all quartz worktops should be bedded and adhered to the units below. Further the units should have tops on them in order to support the worktops and provide a bed for the adhesive. Normal silicone is not used, and the bottom line is removal of such worktops will cause damage to the units.

Many companies cover the worktops as a quick fix, tarting up, of kitchens in order to prevent problems with removing worktops and the damage that will cause.

Well that's fair enough, in that case I would agree but Quartz and Granite worktops are unlikely to need changing hence my comments.

The company that fitted my granite used a strong building adhesive and only applied it after seating the garanite, ie as a fillet. They were adament gravity would take care of the rest.;)