Central Locking Problem

square_bear
square_bear Posts: 3,865 Forumite
Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
Hello
Hoping someone can help me.


I have a 5 door Toyota Yaris 1.0 vvt - Petrol, on a 54 plate.


The central locking does not work at the moment and I can't work out why.
At first I thought it might be the key battery so I replaced that, but it still doesn't work.
The spare key is just a standard key without the buttons.
The car will open if I manually use the key in the lock, and all locks will open with a turn and close with a turn.
I opened all the doors and boot and shut them firmly in case of a sticking button, and the interior light goes out.
I checked the fuse and that's ok, too.


A week last Monday, I had a Toyota recall regarding the airbag. When I collected the car there was no problem opening or locking it. This problem started about a week afterwards.
I contacted the dealer to explain the situation but he said that the two are unrelated and the airbag change would not have affected the central-locking in any way. We went through a few tips over the phone trying to solve it but in the end he said that I would have to bring the car in for a diagnostic check (at £75 per hour + VAT) to try and identify the fault.


Could there be a connection between the two?




Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Comments

  • facade
    facade Posts: 7,469 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Doubt it.

    Could be the driver's lock has failed, and isn't locking remotely, so the rest of the remote system doesn't work, but if you lock the drivers door manually with the key, the switching works and the rest lock too.

    Could be the remote has failed, usually there is a broken connection at the circuit board due to all the pressing of buttons, easy fix with a soldering iron.

    Could be the remote is out of synch with the car, there is usually some procedure involving button pressing, key turning door, slamming that sets it back, should be in the handbook in the section about changing the battery.
    I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....

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  • facade wrote: »
    Doubt it.

    Could be the remote is out of synch with the car, there is usually some procedure involving button pressing, key turning door, slamming that sets it back, should be in the handbook in the section about changing the battery.

    Possible, but would be surprised if this just randomly happened. Usually triggered when battery is on its way out or straight after its been disconnected.

    I had a partial electrical issue which caused similar symptoms. Caused by cracked wiring in the tailgate. Given your cars age these wires could easily have become damaged from years of using the boot. Its very easy to check so worth a try.

    I agree with the dealer, if they broke the locking it would have been broken on collection.
  • square_bear
    square_bear Posts: 3,865 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    How can I detect if the problem is with the key or with the car?
  • How can I detect if the problem is with the key or with the car?

    Spare key per chance?
  • pappa_golf
    pappa_golf Posts: 8,895 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    spare key is a non remote one
    Save a Rachael

    buy a share in crapita
  • nologo
    nologo Posts: 171 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    Does the central locking work from the manual switch on the inside of the drivers door?
    Deepest Kent. 4.6kW Growatt inverter, solar i boost+ 5.9kW Solar Edge

    ok so far...
  • square_bear
    square_bear Posts: 3,865 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    Yes, the switch closes and opens all the locks perfectly.


    I'm starting to think it's the key fob.
    Someone I know has suggested an auto engineer who is local to me to look at it.
    I haven't contacted him yet.
    I'm thinking of cleaning up the points of the key fob first.
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