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Building a workshop

spadoosh
spadoosh Posts: 8,732 Forumite
Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
Been plannimg for a few years to get a workshop built in the back garden and finally getting to a stage where things can start rolling soon. After any and all advice.

The requirements:

3m x 5m workshop
Waterproof
Suitable for use in winter
Self build (budget constraints)

The plan has taken many different shapes and formats but style is pretty much similar to a single garage with the door being in the middle of the 5m wall as opposed to being on the end. Pent roof.

Original idea was to timber frame and clad. Concrete foundation 2x4 for walls and 2x6 for floors and roof. Was thinking bitumen style roof sheets. Insulated as well as possible.

After recently speaking to a friend he seems to think costs wise therell be little difference between a timber workshop and building it out of concrete block. The block building will offer that bit more protection and need less servicing which is appealing.

As mentioned the budget is limited, got £1500 set aside. Thought i was pushing it with a timber build! Things like doors and windows will be second hand / salvaged. Got access to heavy machinery for digging, flattening and mixing if needs be so no costs for them. Realistically i dont want to spend over £2k on it.

Theres going to be things put in place for electrics but unlikely to be included in this budget and thinking our consumer unit will need replacing to accommodate the separate circuit?

Fits within permitted development would need to adjust the positioning in the garden if timber (combustible).

Never brickied before but do like my DIY so would benefit from learning the skill, the timber framing will be nice and easy (apart from doing it myself) but if i can get a block built workshop for the same money, seems a bit daft not to?

Thoughts, opinions, ideas or comments?! Thank you for your time.

ETA, whilst budget is restricted the main reason for going the diy route is the majority of pre built and delivered jobbies seem to be far below my expectations. After a garden building not some fence panels strapped together.

Comments

  • albert_s
    albert_s Posts: 72 Forumite
    if you build it out of block, get yourself one of these
    http://bricky.com/product-category/wall-building-tools/

    I got a 12'x8' wooden shed a couple of years ago, the materials alone would have cost me over £800, and thats at trade prices,
    I think you are being very optimistic at 2grand tbh, for a block shed, you will probably get the shell up for that, not much else.
  • spadoosh
    spadoosh Posts: 8,732 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Cheers seen the bricky looks like a good tool for the newbie.

    I agree im being optimistic but if i set myself a £4k budget i would spend £4k, so the idea is to take the dissapointment of being over budget but be glad it didnt go as far as a more realistically priced option iygwim?!

    Also worth mentioning under no time constraints so can afford to hang around until i can find cheap enough materials.
  • phil24_7
    phil24_7 Posts: 1,535 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    I would personally go block build and build it as if it was an extension (i.e. proper foundations, cavity wall with wall ties and 60mm insulation) Could probably get the materials for under your 2k, especially if you can scour ebay for leftovers or go direct to the manufacturers or wholesalers for any of their seconds, then it's just your time to build it. It's not that complex and block work gets easier the more you do. Youtube the crap out of it before you start so you know what your doing.
  • You may want to check with your local authority that this fits within their interpretation of permitted development rights and possibly apply for a certificate of lawful development.

    It may fit within all the size and positioning constraints for outbuildings under permitted development but the key thing is that the building is "incidental to the enjoyment of the dwellinghouse".

    Unfortunately different authorities seem to interpret this differently. The only way to be sure is to open a conversation with your planning department. They may never find out but if you're doing anything noisy in there it only takes one complaint.

    http://plainview.co.uk/news/ancillary-vs-incidental/
  • phil24_7
    phil24_7 Posts: 1,535 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    If it looks like a shed then it is a shed...if it should change it's use after it's built then who's going to tell?!?! ;)
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    There will be no problem provided it is under 2.5 mtr to the eaves even if it has a pitched roof, but a quick call to the council planners will set your mind at rest.
    Mine was built from block and rendered and is right up to the rear boundary, council said no issues other than minding the height.

    Brick or block build every time, mine was done after the shed it replaced was raided and I lost a £1k heavy duty shredder.
    Personally i'd tile it, it will look better and will last.

    Your budger of £2k is just about doable.

    I have to disagree with an earlier poster who suggested the bricky thing, a little practice with nothing more than wet sand and the blocks will soon teach you the tehnique.

    You'll need a few tools, trowels, brick hammer etc but there is 1 item that is cheap but in my view essential, I'll come back to that.

    If you get the foundation dead level you will save yourself much work as all you will need is a brick course stick that is used to give even course heights and is simply used of the foudation at each corner. Don't worry if it's not perfect, you can always add a small mortar pad at the low points so you have a level start for the stick.

    You will need a 3-4ft level for the corners and a 9" boat level helps but the secret is a pair is line blocks. These are simple home made angled blocks that you use to stretch a string line across corner to corner. They are sltted to take the string and have a couple of screws in the back to wind line around to get the correct tension.

    Saves the hassle of pins and as you always construct the corners first they are in my mind essential.
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • tony6403
    tony6403 Posts: 1,257 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    I generally agree with Bri. on this.
    I would include a home made large square ( made on the 3;4;5 rule) for the corners. I don't use my brick hammer much and now use a small cordless grinder for cuts together with a bolster chisel. Cuts can be minimised by careful planning ; make the walls to a length divisible by a number of whole bricks/blocks.
    Forgotten but not gone.
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