How to plasterboard with this in the way?

pledgeX

I need to put some plasterboard up on a wall. The wall is free from obstacles with the exception of some pipework that is for an external tap (see images below).

The plasterboard will be 1200mm wide and that pipe is slap bang in the middle of the board, so makes fitting the board a bit tricky. What's the best way to fit this? I've come up with three options:

1) Just cut out a large chunk in the side of the plasterboard so it can slide in. Then tape the bit that was cut out back in afterwards.

2) Cut the board in half vertically so a small cutout for the pipe can be made on the join.

3) Cut a small hole in the board where the pipe is. Turn the tap to isolate the flow, then remove the 90 degree bend at the top of the pipe, allowing the board to slide in and then over the pipe.


Option 1 sounds like a terrible hack, but this area of the board will be behind kitchen cabinets so will not be visible.

Option 2 means having an additional (and visible) join which I would like to avoid if possible, especially as I've not cut board before so am concerned about getting a flush fit.

Option 3 sounds like the proper way to do it, but I'm not sure how easy it is to just remove that piece of pipework. I don't want to have a perfect piece of plasterboard ruined by a leak that I introduced.

jk0

I think I would unscrew the pipe at the union in the corner of the room, or even further back if possible if you are boarding the other wall as well. Then put up the plasterboard & reconnect the pipework.

Edit: You might want to put some noggins in the wall before boarding to screw pipe clips into.

tonyh66

whats all that wiring running through the wall at that height? it kind of defys the convention of it running throught the ceiling void and droppng vertically to the socket/switch. Probably highly dangerous for someone drilling through the wall at some point in the future.

brightontraveller

tonyh66 wrote: »

whats all that wiring running through the wall at that height? it kind of defys the convention of it running throught the ceiling void and droppng vertically to the socket/switch. Probably highly dangerous for someone drilling through the wall at some point in the future.

Regulations 522.6.6 and 522.6.8 ? Tend to be only applicable to qualified person? Bodgers have there own regs :rotfl:

If your leaving pipe work as is then I’d make sure all of the compression fittings are accessible ?

Ozzuk

My first thought was horizontal wiring! Shocking. Literally.

I take it you aren't plastering it? If it isn't visible then it doesn't really matter (though I'd try and minimise hole size by altering pipes. If it is visible then you'd likely be plastering so it doesn't matter.

TheCyclingProgrammer

Given the loose wire isn't it possible the horizontal wiring is in line with an accessory (or will be) and therefore in a safe zone?

pledgeX

jk0 wrote: »

I think I would unscrew the pipe at the union in the corner of the room, or even further back if possible if you are boarding the other wall as well. Then put up the plasterboard & reconnect the pipework.

Edit: You might want to put some noggins in the wall before boarding to screw pipe clips into.

Good point on the noggins. The corner appears to be welded in place, or at least certainly not easily unscrew-able like the right angle at the top.

tonyh66 wrote: »

whats all that wiring running through the wall at that height? it kind of defys the convention of it running throught the ceiling void and droppng vertically to the socket/switch. Probably highly dangerous for someone drilling through the wall at some point in the future.

Access to the ceiling void is tricky though. It would involve ripping up the floor upstairs or pulling down the ceiling below. I'm not saying what's been done is correct, but that's why it was done.

brightontraveller wrote: »

If your leaving pipe work as is then I’d make sure all of the compression fittings are accessible ?

What is the compression fitting? It'll be covered by a kitchen cabinet, but I intend to cut the back out of the unit so you can access the vertical part of the pipe.

Ozzuk wrote: »

I take it you aren't plastering it? If it isn't visible then it doesn't really matter (though I'd try and minimise hole size by altering pipes. If it is visible then you'd likely be plastering so it doesn't matter.

No not planning to plaster as 75% of the wall will be covered by kitchen units, and the other 25% will be tiled over.

TheCyclingProgrammer wrote: »

Given the loose wire isn't it possible the horizontal wiring is in line with an accessory (or will be) and therefore in a safe zone?

Yes there will be several power sockets and switches at the height the cables are running. They're cables are pretty much as far back as possible so unless you're using extremely long screws/drill bits then hopefully there won't be a problem. Again I'm not saying they way it's been done is correct, but I'm not an electrician so don't know!

brightontraveller

pledgeX wrote: »

What is the compression fitting? It'll be covered by a kitchen cabinet, but I intend to cut the back out of the unit so you can access the vertical part of the pipe.!

Your compression fittings are in this case the brass colour components on the copper pipe which have to be tighten with a spanner/wrench etc e.g. 90deg compression elbow
compression stop etc

May help you identify them
http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/plumbing-drainage/fittings/compression-fittings/#http%3A%2F%2Fwww.plumbcenter.co.uk%2Fwebapp%2Fwcs%2Fstores%2Fservlet%2FCategoryOnlyResultsDisplayView%3FpageSize%3D96%26sortColumn%3Dscore%26catalogId%3D10051%26sortType%3Ddesc%26currentPage%3D1%26categoryId%3D82692%26langId%3D44%26storeId%3D10201%26identifier%3D1459415934416

They work by compressing the olive when tightened to stop water leaking? Anything that you need to tighten, adjust with a tool it is wise to be able to access

phil24_7

You could batten out the entire wall to gain you an extra 19 or 25mm, then put an inspection panel over the parts you may need access to.

pledgeX

Thanks for the advice all.

I went down the route of option 3. It went quite smoothly. I had to make the hole slightly larger than I wanted as I couldn't bend the plasterboard as much as needed and I didn't want to move the pipework any further than necessary.

I've connected the pipework back together again so tonight I'll turn the tap on and check for leaks. Wish me luck!

Here's a (very poor) picture of the job: