Mending Boiler Leak with epoxy/glue/putty

face-t

I have 1-2 sources of a leak in my central heating boiler. I don't want to touch it during coldest winter months as it is still working. But the time will surely come for it in 1-2 months.
SO within this time I want to get ready for a work.

Boiler : Ideal HE 30

My question for you guys is:
Is it safe to mend/repair holes/leaks with:

1) Gorilla Glue 60ml by Gorilla - folks are saying it holds well in wet conditions and it slightly expands [so wouldn't use loads]

2) J-B HighHeat Epoxy Putty - might be good if leak is on a hot element ?

I for sure don't know source of the leak as it will require more disassembling, but I suspect [but not sure] the pump that is at the very bottom has lost seal on a joint [looks like something got between seal and the plastic part as the gap is little wider]





Thanks in advance.

victor2

If it's still working, use something to catch the drips in and call out a heating engineer to look at it. A DIY repair with any sort of resin is going to cost you more in the long run.

phoenix_w

Gorilla glue expands a lot and is not water tight (it's essentially expanding foam - polyurethane).

Agree with the other post - don't bodge it with glue, it won't work.

chrisw

And even if it works for a bit, it will fail on Christmas Day....

face-t

chrisw wrote: »

And even if it works for a bit, it will fail on Christmas Day....

I know what you mean , but boiler is like 14 y old, and first estimates show me above £500 cost of repair to save piece of equipment that already broke in similar fashion 2 y ago and costed £250 to repair [started to leak again 6 months later]. I'd rather save for new piece.....

But I appreciate all opinions; would be happy to read someone experience on failing/having success on doing something like that.

phoenix_w

If you absolutely must go down this route, have you considered a silicone meant for leak sealing like LSX?

Whatever you choose it will fail eventually. Water always has a way of creeping out of the tiniest gaps, and the pressure and constant temp changes guarantee those gaps will get created.

Mr.Generous

some kind of car gasket paste would probably do it but you'd have to strip it down and clean it to get a tight joint. Anything bunged into the crack will fail almost immediately under the heat and pressure.

mchale

http://www.kalimex.co.uk/our-products/quiksteel

The dog's dangly bit's

face-t

thanks to all. It kept leaking from heating exchanger, but to be honest crack was concealed and I didn't want to strip parts on my own and finally I have managed to replace it