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Internal wall insulation
Comments
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You say energy saving didn't warrant the cost to be honest retro fitting not sure anything ever does in reality ?MisterBaxter wrote: »Do you have actual experience with this stuff? We looked at it for a housing project that was grant funded but the energy savings didn't cover the scheme costs so it didn't go ahead. Never really revisited the stuff but may be worth another look.
How does it perform ano how do costs compare? (I'm assuming this is the stuff the sales rep has great pleasure in telling you about how it was developed by NASA)
Used it with mag board and without in conversions refits in London and abroad, You could say much like any retro insulation its a gimmick or selling point.
Property stands out all other things equal spend few grand less on a kitchen /bathroom (That most people wouldn't be able to tell the difference) In return more energy efficient property? Also seams to give better sound reduction with less lost internal space than say other non specific... As a non scientific answer converted house into flats ourselves and another developer did identical building two doors away with conventional gyproc etc I heard from leaseholders there running cost are lower heating down a few degrees than that of other block….0 -
Aerogel is very very expensive!!
For it's thickness (thinness) it is about the best insulation you can get, but once you've added plasterboard to it, it's really only worth it where space really really is at a premium (eg staircase walls)0 -
Lots of stuff about aerogel IWI at http://www.earth.org.uk/aerogel-on-the-north-face.html (and linked pages).
If you're trying to upgrade your wall I'd go for better than U=0.5.0 -
Smiley_Dan wrote: »Lots of stuff about aerogel IWI at http://www.earth.org.uk/aerogel-on-the-north-face.html (and linked pages).
If you're trying to upgrade your wall I'd go for better than U=0.5.
Building Regs want you to hit U=0.3 or lower/better, however in the case of single-leaf walls (as per the OP) there has been research which highlighted issues with going lower than U=0.5
(with no heat flowing outwards, & no ventilation on the interior, the walls don't dry out after getting wet)
Also, going from U=2.0 to 0.5 is a massive improvement, getting an extra 0.2 is a lot more expensive financially & space wise.0 -
My house walls are single brick thick, with no insulation, but there is pebbledash on the outside. Does that make much difference to the U value?0
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My house walls are single brick thick, with no insulation, but there is pebbledash on the outside. Does that make much difference to the U value?
Unless there is some insulation on the outside of the wall underneath the 'pebbledash' then the 'pebbledash' alone really won't have much of an impact on the thermal properties of the wall structure.0
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