Advise needed Re: Full Structural survey....

lattridge1984

So we have just had our full structural survey back. I knew it was going to be daunting and hard to understand, but boy does it go into detail.

The obvious advise is speak to the solicitor and get some quotes. All that is in progress. However I thought I would ask you guy what you think

The main gist is that for the property of this age, It's in average condition and the defects that are listed are to be expected.

The works that have been highlighted in red are estimated to cost between £14,000 and £16,000.

Now before I go on and ask the vendor for a reduction, I would like to now what is really urgent and what is really general wear and tear (what if senario) and whether its even justified to ask for a reduction to cover the cost.

Here it goes...

Evidence of damp and infestation in loft area

D.2 – my inspection within the roof revealed the fact water penetration has been occurring in a number of locations because of the condition of the underfelt beneath the tiles. In addition, much of the felt is old and does not comply with modern requirements. I therefore recommend you budget for stripping and replacing the entire rear roof slope with new underfelt and battens and using the existing tiles set aside for later re-use.

D.2 – the existing felt, battens and tiles to the main roof need to be stripped back at the lower edges of the roof(s). The timbers beneath can then be examined and repaired as required - it is possible there may be some rot (fungal decay) in these timbers because of the failure of the felt. New polymer felt can then be laid beneath the existing felt and over into the gutters. The areas can then be re-battened and retiled.


D.3 – many gutters do not have an adequate slope towards the rainwater pipes. They overflow when rain falls. This allows water to run onto the ground or down onto the building. This could cause structural movement in the foundations or deterioration in other parts of the property, e.g. rot (fungal decay). The gutters that have an inadequate fall should be carefully adjusted so they have a positive fall (slope) towards the tops of the rainwater pipes.

D.3 – the number of gutter brackets to the gutters is inadequate and more gutter brackets therefore need to be installed.

D.3 – pipe-guards should be installed in view of the number of trees in the vicinity and the consequent risk of blockages caused by leaves and associated debris. Alternatively, a system that completely fills the gutter and prevents leaves and other material falling into the gutters can be fitted - a proprietary name for this system is 'gutter hedgehog'.

D.5 – outside ground levels are too high in relation to the height of the DPC and the inside floor level(s). This can cause dampness, which can cause rot (fungal decay), wood-boring insect attacks and deterioration in plaster and decorations. There is some damp inside the property. Outside ground levels should therefore be reduced soon to at least 150mm below the level of the DPC.

E.1 – due to the presence of holes and imperfections in the underlay on the other main roof slopes, further repairs will be required to the underlay beneath the main roof coverings in other locations now, e.g. to the front right hip.

E.1 – there are active wood-boring insect attacks to the timbers in the roof. This is usual in a property of this age and type. Indeed, in a property of this age and type it is likely there are wood-boring insect attacks in the timbers of the roof. The timbers should be treated by a company that specialises in such work. The work usually comprises cleaning down timbers by removing dust and debris such as cob-webs. Insulation also usually needs to be removed or temporarily pushed to one side. The timbers are then sprayed with insecticide and fungicide. The work usually has the benefit of a guarantee or warranty – this helps to protect your interests in the event of another attack.

Electrics

F.1 – the electricity installation is generally in fair condition only and some parts are poor. I believe you will need to budget for some renewals and improvement works to the installation; e.g. provision of more socket outlets, moving some outlets, chasing cables into walls, fire-proofing the underside of the stairs and other works.

I'm finding all this hard to get my head round, Is all of this work really needed straight away?

The rest of the building came back structually ok.

Thanks

AdrianC

lattridge1984 wrote: »

D.2 – my inspection within the roof revealed the fact water penetration has been occurring in a number of locations because of the condition of the underfelt beneath the tiles. In addition, much of the felt is old and does not comply with modern requirements. I therefore recommend you budget for stripping and replacing the entire rear roof slope with new underfelt and battens and using the existing tiles set aside for later re-use.

Water is getting past the tiles, and to the felt on the inside of them. The felt's knackered. He's recommending that the tiles come off, the felt's replaced, and the tiles put back on.

Sounds fairly high priority.

D.2 – the existing felt, battens and tiles to the main roof need to be stripped back at the lower edges of the roof(s). The timbers beneath can then be examined and repaired as required - it is possible there may be some rot (fungal decay) in these timbers because of the failure of the felt. New polymer felt can then be laid beneath the existing felt and over into the gutters. The areas can then be re-battened and retiled.

While the roof's off, check the timbers, because the water may well have affected them. Not much extra work to the above.

D.3 – many gutters do not have an adequate slope towards the rainwater pipes. They overflow when rain falls. This allows water to run onto the ground or down onto the building. This could cause structural movement in the foundations or deterioration in other parts of the property, e.g. rot (fungal decay). The gutters that have an inadequate fall should be carefully adjusted so they have a positive fall (slope) towards the tops of the rainwater pipes.

Water always follows gravity. The gutters should slope towards the down pipes - they don't... Relatively minor work at the same time as the roof work.

D.3 – the number of gutter brackets to the gutters is inadequate and more gutter brackets therefore need to be installed.

Whichever numpty fitted the gutters really did bodge it up, and didn't put enough brackets up. Trivial work while somebody's up there.

D.3 – pipe-guards should be installed in view of the number of trees in the vicinity and the consequent risk of blockages caused by leaves and associated debris. Alternatively, a system that completely fills the gutter and prevents leaves and other material falling into the gutters can be fitted - a proprietary name for this system is 'gutter hedgehog'.

Gutters fill with leaves and mulch - especially if the water's not flowing fast enough. You can get up a ladder and clean them regularly, or you can put guards in to prevent them building up. Trivial extra work.

D.5 – outside ground levels are too high in relation to the height of the DPC and the inside floor level(s). This can cause dampness, which can cause rot (fungal decay), wood-boring insect attacks and deterioration in plaster and decorations. There is some damp inside the property. Outside ground levels should therefore be reduced soon to at least 150mm below the level of the DPC.

The damp course has got buried under earth in places. Clear it back, so that the earth's below the level of the DPC. An hour or two with a spade.

E.1 – due to the presence of holes and imperfections in the underlay on the other main roof slopes, further repairs will be required to the underlay beneath the main roof coverings in other locations now, e.g. to the front right hip.

While they're doing the rear roof, there's bits which need looking at elsewhere, too.

E.1 – there are active wood-boring insect attacks to the timbers in the roof. This is usual in a property of this age and type. Indeed, in a property of this age and type it is likely there are wood-boring insect attacks in the timbers of the roof. The timbers should be treated by a company that specialises in such work. The work usually comprises cleaning down timbers by removing dust and debris such as cob-webs. Insulation also usually needs to be removed or temporarily pushed to one side. The timbers are then sprayed with insecticide and fungicide. The work usually has the benefit of a guarantee or warranty – this helps to protect your interests in the event of another attack.

Real live woodworm in the roof timbers - get 'em cleaned and sprayed. This is one of the common make-work-big-invoice cover-alls. It should all be clear when the roof's apart.

Electrics

F.1 – the electricity installation is generally in fair condition only and some parts are poor. I believe you will need to budget for some renewals and improvement works to the installation; e.g. provision of more socket outlets, moving some outlets, chasing cables into walls, fire-proofing the underside of the stairs and other works.

The wiring's getting on a bit, and doesn't have many sockets where you're likely to want 'em. You should think about getting it checked out, because it sounds like the numpty who did the gutters might have been at the sparks, too...

Short version...
There's going to be scaffolding around the roof for a while, and some largeish bills - get everything done up there at once.
You might want to look at the sparks at some point in the future, more to bring 'em up to modern life than anything desperate, but there might be bodginess in there.

Browntoa

normal "cover backside" stuff

alumende27

It's hard to know whether it's backside covering or not, but I will say that when I bought a previous house 15 years ago the full building survey said the roof would need replacing due to it's age and condition. 10 years later I finally got round to getting a local roofer to fix some damaged slate tiles and replace some shoddy victorian cement bodge with proper lead flashing. I asked about the surveyor's report and he said the roof would outlast me.

Water ingress and poor gutters are generally something that ought to get fixed sooner rather than later though. People often underestimate how much damage can be caused by poor guttering.

If it was me, I'd either ask for a reduction or ask the owners fix the issue before sale. You never know what they'll agree to until you ask.