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mazy_m
Posts: 661 Forumite
Hi all,
So my Homebuyers survey suggested getting a damp and timber report which I've not done and had back but I thought it would have made things a bit clearer now I've just more confused.
Here are the observations that he's made. I can tell that most are recommendations but can I just see what you all think of it and if I should be running a mile from this property as it will end up costing me loads or am I just being my usual self a complete and utter worrier.
I don't really want to get into negotiations with the vendor etc as I just want this over as soon as possible but I don't want to be taken for a fool so do need help knowing if I should be negotiating at all. I'm not sure how this would really help though as if they did see the projected costings and I were to say to them we pay 1/2 each or they pay 1/3 if it was taken off the asking price it's not like it means I have the money now to do it.
He's said on it that it doesn't seem like it's been covered up but that it can happen. My only concern for this is that the vendors have been chasing this up despite the main hold up being on their end and the fact they also texted me when it was done to say it was all fine. I don't feel they've been deceptive at all and usually my guts is right. But I'm being told from every angle you can't be too careful when buying a house and that you have to do what's best for you.
Here's the main bits from it to see what you guys all think:
So my Homebuyers survey suggested getting a damp and timber report which I've not done and had back but I thought it would have made things a bit clearer now I've just more confused.
Here are the observations that he's made. I can tell that most are recommendations but can I just see what you all think of it and if I should be running a mile from this property as it will end up costing me loads or am I just being my usual self a complete and utter worrier.
I don't really want to get into negotiations with the vendor etc as I just want this over as soon as possible but I don't want to be taken for a fool so do need help knowing if I should be negotiating at all. I'm not sure how this would really help though as if they did see the projected costings and I were to say to them we pay 1/2 each or they pay 1/3 if it was taken off the asking price it's not like it means I have the money now to do it.
He's said on it that it doesn't seem like it's been covered up but that it can happen. My only concern for this is that the vendors have been chasing this up despite the main hold up being on their end and the fact they also texted me when it was done to say it was all fine. I don't feel they've been deceptive at all and usually my guts is right. But I'm being told from every angle you can't be too careful when buying a house and that you have to do what's best for you.
Here's the main bits from it to see what you guys all think:
CONCLUSIONS:
The property is well presented but there is concern over the degree to which structural timbers and some walls have been covered up / concealed from inspection. Whilst this may be completely innocent and done with the best of intentions, the client will appreciate that this is not always the case and some vendors have been known to conceal faults from being readily inspected. Additionally there is a paper trail of dampness and high moisture content of timbers to ground floor rooms leading into some of these concealed areas.
Of the areas we were able to inspect the dampness and timber at high moisture content need to be resolved to prevent decay and degradation. It is in our opinion likely the dampness and associated issues extend behind the units in some areas and also behind the heavy furniture such as the corner settee until proved otherwise.
The reasons for the dampness / high moisture content to ground floor joinery such as skirting are from the evidence to date thought most likely to relate to gaps at the solid floor / wall joint, debris within the base of external wall cavities compounded by retro fit insulation, high external ground levels to rear and damp redundant hearths that once supported coal fires. Where sampled the carbide meter test was acceptably dry for this wall material suggesting the damp proof course (dpc) at point of sampling was effective. However this was only a single sample point and dpc failure cannot be ruled out at this stage to areas not sampled.
The recommendation in respect of the low level dampness is to remove the debris from the wall cavities to well below dpc level, seal the solid floor / wall joint where any gaps are present with flexible impervious material, ensure plaster is not bridging the dpc, replace damp hearths where applicable and replace damp / degraded plaster where it fails to dry down. The client may also wish to consider installing a new dpc whilst the area is accessible as a precautionary measure but this would be their choice and not because of proven dpc failure to date.
Additionally cavity wall ties to all external elevations need to be addressed.
As an alternative to traditional re-plastering, especially where substrate is at risk of contamination, is Safeguard's Drybase Flex Membrane fixed to the wall with Drybase Flex Adhesive. This is a newly launched product (see Safeguard website for details) that is supposed to provide a physical thin barrier to damp / salts which is stuck directly onto the substrate and then plastered over. The advantage of this system is that it can be mated up more easily than a polypropylene studded membrane system to sound dry existing wall plaster whilst providing a physical barrier to damp / contaminated areas.
Whatever system is chosen it is a requirement to ensure that timber is physically isolated from dampness. When re-fitting skirting any wooden wedges or timber plugs within the wall should be removed and plastic plugs / stainless steel screws / waterproof grade adhesive used instead.
The property is well presented but there is concern over the degree to which structural timbers and some walls have been covered up / concealed from inspection. Whilst this may be completely innocent and done with the best of intentions, the client will appreciate that this is not always the case and some vendors have been known to conceal faults from being readily inspected. Additionally there is a paper trail of dampness and high moisture content of timbers to ground floor rooms leading into some of these concealed areas.
Of the areas we were able to inspect the dampness and timber at high moisture content need to be resolved to prevent decay and degradation. It is in our opinion likely the dampness and associated issues extend behind the units in some areas and also behind the heavy furniture such as the corner settee until proved otherwise.
The reasons for the dampness / high moisture content to ground floor joinery such as skirting are from the evidence to date thought most likely to relate to gaps at the solid floor / wall joint, debris within the base of external wall cavities compounded by retro fit insulation, high external ground levels to rear and damp redundant hearths that once supported coal fires. Where sampled the carbide meter test was acceptably dry for this wall material suggesting the damp proof course (dpc) at point of sampling was effective. However this was only a single sample point and dpc failure cannot be ruled out at this stage to areas not sampled.
The recommendation in respect of the low level dampness is to remove the debris from the wall cavities to well below dpc level, seal the solid floor / wall joint where any gaps are present with flexible impervious material, ensure plaster is not bridging the dpc, replace damp hearths where applicable and replace damp / degraded plaster where it fails to dry down. The client may also wish to consider installing a new dpc whilst the area is accessible as a precautionary measure but this would be their choice and not because of proven dpc failure to date.
Additionally cavity wall ties to all external elevations need to be addressed.
As an alternative to traditional re-plastering, especially where substrate is at risk of contamination, is Safeguard's Drybase Flex Membrane fixed to the wall with Drybase Flex Adhesive. This is a newly launched product (see Safeguard website for details) that is supposed to provide a physical thin barrier to damp / salts which is stuck directly onto the substrate and then plastered over. The advantage of this system is that it can be mated up more easily than a polypropylene studded membrane system to sound dry existing wall plaster whilst providing a physical barrier to damp / contaminated areas.
Whatever system is chosen it is a requirement to ensure that timber is physically isolated from dampness. When re-fitting skirting any wooden wedges or timber plugs within the wall should be removed and plastic plugs / stainless steel screws / waterproof grade adhesive used instead.
The provisional costs for remedial treatment exclude VAT and removing / re-fixing any obstructions, redecoration, protection etc, unless stated otherwise:
1. Remove existing wall plaster min 1m high to areas in red to the attached sketch or 300mm beyond where any greater heights present (see sketch). Remove any wooden wedges and low level joinery where applicable. Seal solid ground floor / wall joints to areas of removed plaster with flexible impervious material over this joint and up to if applicable newly injected dpc level. Apply Safeguard's Drybase Flex Adhesive to exposed substrate and then Drybase Flex Membrane fixed to the wall followed by Safeguard renovating plaster and skim with skim not exceeding 1-2mm. Re-fit or renew with pre-treated wood, low level joinery previously removed and isolated from damp substrate treating with preservative as necessary. £1800
Any additional areas found to require the above works upon opening up to be at pro rata cost with the client reminded of the high risk of such being present behind concealed areas such as kitchen units / lounge units and furniture.
2. Excavate out original hearth and cast new concrete hearth on barrier to ground moisture £800
3. Insert new cavity wall ties to all cavity wall external elevations of the main house and issue long term insurance backed guarantee £2000
No allowance for removal / isolation of any large section ties if present which would be estimated to be at least three times the above figure to address including scaffolding.
4. Should the client wish to inject a new chemical dpc to areas in red of the attached sketch as a precautionary measure at their own discretion for the benefit of long term insurance backed guarantee to areas in red only and to BS6576 £600
Any additional areas found to require the above works upon opening up to be at pro rata cost
5. Remove timber decking to rear of property £500
1. Remove existing wall plaster min 1m high to areas in red to the attached sketch or 300mm beyond where any greater heights present (see sketch). Remove any wooden wedges and low level joinery where applicable. Seal solid ground floor / wall joints to areas of removed plaster with flexible impervious material over this joint and up to if applicable newly injected dpc level. Apply Safeguard's Drybase Flex Adhesive to exposed substrate and then Drybase Flex Membrane fixed to the wall followed by Safeguard renovating plaster and skim with skim not exceeding 1-2mm. Re-fit or renew with pre-treated wood, low level joinery previously removed and isolated from damp substrate treating with preservative as necessary. £1800
Any additional areas found to require the above works upon opening up to be at pro rata cost with the client reminded of the high risk of such being present behind concealed areas such as kitchen units / lounge units and furniture.
2. Excavate out original hearth and cast new concrete hearth on barrier to ground moisture £800
3. Insert new cavity wall ties to all cavity wall external elevations of the main house and issue long term insurance backed guarantee £2000
No allowance for removal / isolation of any large section ties if present which would be estimated to be at least three times the above figure to address including scaffolding.
4. Should the client wish to inject a new chemical dpc to areas in red of the attached sketch as a precautionary measure at their own discretion for the benefit of long term insurance backed guarantee to areas in red only and to BS6576 £600
Any additional areas found to require the above works upon opening up to be at pro rata cost
5. Remove timber decking to rear of property £500
A lot of fellows nowadays have a B.A., M.D., or Ph.D. Unfortunately, they don't have a J.O.B."
0
Comments
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Bit confused - You have or have not had a damp report? Is this report the surveyor's or the damp report?Hi all,
So my Homebuyers survey suggested getting a damp and timber report which I've not done and had back but I thought it would have made things a bit clearer now I've just more confused.
Here are the observations that he's made. ......
Either way, I'd first decide whether you still want to buy this property and put it right, or not.
If yes, use the report as a bargaining tool on purchase price.
As for subsequently doing the work, get a 2nd and 3rd opinion on what needs doing, and and then get 3 quotes for the work.0 -
Hi thanks for the reply it always changes my now to not.
I've now had the timber and damp survey done. Which is what the info I've put down is taken from. It's not a quotation but a proper survey from an independent company I asked if it would be possible to give some estimates.
My question is to find out if what's been discovered is awful enough to walk away. I don't want to spend thousands straight away (well at all really!) or if it is more a recommendation and that it will need to be done over time which is what I expected from a house purchase.A lot of fellows nowadays have a B.A., M.D., or Ph.D. Unfortunately, they don't have a J.O.B."0 -
Some buyers would consider it awful and walk away and other would take it in their stride.
My question is to find out if what's been discovered is awful enough to walk away. I don't want to spend thousands straight away (well at all really!) or if it is more a recommendation and that it will need to be done over time which is what I expected from a house purchase.
Unless you buy a New Build, nearly all properties need some work when they change ownership - it's just a question of how much work the new owner is prepared to undertake.
One school of thought is that the more work needed, the lower the purchase price, so the better the property you end up with once it's done.0 -
Well, I'm not sure that's entirely true! I've moved about 10 times in the last 40 years, and only once did the property need some work, but I knew that when I moved. All the others didn't need work. They were fine and only when I fancied a change did I do any painting.
Unless you buy a New Build, nearly all properties need some work when they change ownership - it's just a question of how much work the new owner is prepared to undertake.
Other work was the usual maintenance, leaking gutters, dripping taps and so on which all properties will have from time to time.
Cheers fj0
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