Must-sees in Kefalonia?

We have a villa in Katelios for a week mid June, will have car hire for the whole duration. We like nice scenery, quaint villages, harbours, places with bars/cafes; not wanting to lie on beaches and not after nightlife in terms of clubby stuff.
Any recommendations for places that are defintely worth looking out, either by day or evening? Don't mind driving a bit for places that tick the boxes

Comments

  • AlexMac
    AlexMac Posts: 3,063 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    We visited Cephalonia a couple of years back and did the usual day trip to Ithaca, and stayed at Sami in the east . This is a pleasant enough harbourside, with lots of good cheap restaurants and the arguable attraction of the beach where they filmed Captain Corelli's Mandolin nearby (if you are into tragic WWII massacres)

    But having driven north west, we were much more interested in Assos on that north west coast. So much so, that we went back the next year and stayed a week! Tiny town with a handful of bar/restaurants, a sheltered bay about 800 yards across that's ideal fro swimming and snorkelling, and a ruined castle a mile up the peninsula opposite if you can hack the steep but even path up. It features at about #5 on Tripadvisors' list of Cefalonia 'Things to do', which I assume you already searched?
    http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attractions-g189457-Activities-Cephalonia_Ionian_Islands.html

    I was also fascinated by the story of the 1950's earthquake which prompted 4/5ths of the island's population to leave, so one day I walked a couple of miles inland ane west from Sami to see the ruined deserted villages which were never rebuilt after 90% plus of the island's buildings were destroyed

    Try also buying the book
    http://www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk/product/walking-and-eating-in-kefalonia/

    And if you're into wlaking there's a 4-5km trail along the'route of the watermills' which used to line the (currently dry) river bed running South East from the charming little port of Sami on the east coast. The municipal website http://sami.gr.temp-www.com/en/default.asp doesn't mention it and its 'Walking trail ' tabs are a bit useless but you could try emailing them on info@sami.gr to ask where to pick up a copy (ours was in the villa).

    Look out for the trail's starting point - a newly painted map on a timber signboard on a bend in the road 4km out if driving towards Argostoli from Sami. It's on the left (east) side of the road and a few hundred meters past the Drongarati Cavern turnoff on the right ( if driving south from Sami) .

    I only did a couple of km of it, which required passing through or over several wire fences, but the ruined foundations of old mills and associated limekilns were a clearly visible memory of a pre-1953 earthquake past.

    Have a great time
  • I agree, Assos is an excellent place to visit. We've been several times and we're going again in July. I'd recommend a couple of the restaurants there but if you stay for an evening meal it's going to be a fair old drive back home in the dark.


    Myrtos beach is probably worth a visit, I know you said you don't want to lie on a beach but I'd still recommend a stop there on the way to Assos - it's a pretty unique place.


    Fiscardo is very nice but that is going to involve driving all the way to the other end of the island. You could make a good day trip up there as there's plenty to see, it's the only place with buildings standing from before the earthquake I believe so there are some good examples of the Venetian architecture. Plus there's always the chance of seeing some mega-yacht(s) outside the harbour.


    The drive along both coast roads in the North of the island is quite spectacular, the West coast has views down to Assos, the East coast has views across to Ithaca.


    Given your preferences I'd avoid Argostoli and Lassi but you probably knew that already anyway.
  • ellay864
    ellay864 Posts: 3,827 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Thanks both. Assos was on my list - nice to see some recommendations here. TA has soooooo much stuff it was like a minefield. I don't mind doing a day out and driving but have heard mixed views about the roads. Was told a few days ago it's absolutely fine but read somewhere else that it's horrendous and scary!
  • The roads aren't that terrible to be honest, it usually takes me a couple of days to adjust to driving on the wrong side of the road but it's pretty straightforward.


    Roundabouts have different rules in Greece but since there is only one on the island, just outside Argostoli, it's not a huge problem!


    The worst time for driving is when all the tourist buses are heading to and from the airport but given most of the arrivals at the airport are early in the morning you have to be out and about pretty early to encounter them. To be honest it's no worse than some of the small roads around Cornwall or Wales.
  • lauraw82
    lauraw82 Posts: 111 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Given the size of the island, you can easily drive from Katelios to Fiskardo in a day, just bear in mind that there are often a lot of cruise ships that will dump their guests in Fiskardo for about 2 hours around lunchtime, so it will get busy then, but there are loads of tavernas on the front so not too much of a problem. There is also a lovely short walk around the 2 lighthouses and some ruins if you want to escape the crowds for a bit, its only about 1.5km distance, but hardly anyone does it.

    On the road from Katelios to Argostoli, you can turn off, and go up a very steep road(!) to some ruins up on the hill top, sorry I can't remember the name, and there is also the old monastry not far from there either, both are worth a visit.

    The only thing I will say in reference to the roads is that there was a landslide last year or the year before on the main road down the west coast leading from the north to Argostoli, the road was closed literally just after the turning to Assos. We had driven from Skala via Sami up to Fiskardo, but somehow managed to miss the turning to go back this way, Greek signs being what they are! Following the diversion lead us literally on windy dirt tracks and tiny little lanes, all in a nissan micra! Given the way the Greek economy is I would not imagine they have reopened the road yet so make sure you know where you're going!!
  • ellay864
    ellay864 Posts: 3,827 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Having done a couple of cruises I'll try to be tolerant of them! Windy dirt tracks in a Fiat Punto could be fun but I had a fill of steep windy roads going to and from Buxton yesterday! I always drive abroad with the expectation it's not going right if I don't get lost at least once! We arrive mid afternoon, pick up car at the airport and intend to drive leisurely to get the feel of things. Getting quite excited about it now :)
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