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Advice Re Survey Results

Had a full buildings survey done on a house we've made an offer on, and a few things came back as Essential Repairs:
Make good to the top rendered flaunchings and apply waterproofing to the stack top and sides. Add top protection (cowl) to the chimneypots to prevent damp ingress decay. Install new code 4 lead flashings and soakers to the abutment upstands, carry out masonry and pointing repair and ensure that the top and surrounds are made watertight. Vent the concealed flue to the severed side stack (top and bottom) to prevent consequential condensation decay.

The original tiled pitched roof coverings are dilapidated and at the end of their serviceable life and are to be replaced in accordance with current building regulation requirements. Apply preventative spraying to the roof timbers. Renew the bay roof coverings with code 5 lead sheet.

Clear the box gutter to the side extension, re-line it with code 5 lead and ensure it is watertight and suitably dressed into the hopper outlet. Replace the cast-iron hopper with a modern fitting and ensure the downpipe is secured to the wall. Ensure the PVC joints and connections are made watertight and that the gutters and gullies are cleared of debris and jetted through. Ensure the new underfelt is suitably dressed into the rainwater guttering in order to prevent consequential masonry damp decay.

Separate the combined foul and surface water connection to the rear in accordance with regulatory controls.

Competent dampness/timber preservation contractor (property care registered) to carry out appropriate remedial work and allied repairs in accordance with Building Research Establishment Digest 245 (2007 Ed.) & Control of Damp - Historic Buildings Factsheet 8.01.

Replace the mains lead service pipework with modern service pipework.

They have given a guideline price of £20k and was just wondering, in your opinions, if this sounds about right, or if that's closer to a maximum/minimum cost.
Mortgage free for 5 months :T Then got another mortgage:rotfl:

Comments

  • Hoploz
    Hoploz Posts: 3,888 Forumite
    Sounds like the roof needs replacing. I would guess that's expensive but have no idea, I've never done it myself.

    I would query the other stuff about the guttering and drainage. I can see that perhaps it'd be sensible to rectify the guttering while doing the roof, but separating the drainage? There must be millions of houses out there which still have this system, it's perfectly normal, we just do it differently these days! Perhaps, again, they just thought it could all be done together so the rainwater can be re-routed when you do the guttering - you'd need to dig a soakaway. But these things would be your choice.
  • G_M
    G_M Posts: 51,977 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Is this a historic building? Listed? In some way special?

    How big is the roof? Assuming (unclear) that it needs an entire new roof (is rain getting in? Is it damp inside?......?) £20K is expensive for a new roof unless it is a large property. The other stuff is relatively minor and as hoploz says just gets done together with the roof work.

    Seperate drains? If they are causing a problem (leaking etc) then when renewing /repairing you may have to seperate them. otherwise if it ain't broke don't fix it!

    damp/timber? there is no statement regarding the condition. What makes the surveyor think you need a contractor?

    Lead piping? Thousands of homes have this (I do), and unless it fails (leaks) why replace it? No - you don't get lead poisoning unless the water sits in the pipe for very long periods. If you are using water, it just runs through...

    Oh, similarly, unless it is leaking (no indication) why replace a beautiful cast iron hopper with a ghastly modern upvc one!!!!
  • steve2005
    steve2005 Posts: 252 Forumite
    Thanks for the fast reply and your advice - this is our first time buying an actual house, so lots of new things that we haven't had to concern ourselves with until now.
    Mortgage free for 5 months :T Then got another mortgage:rotfl:
  • steve2005
    steve2005 Posts: 252 Forumite
    G_M wrote: »
    Is this a historic building? Listed? In some way special?

    How big is the roof? Assuming (unclear) that it needs an entire new roof (is rain getting in? Is it damp inside?......?) £20K is expensive for a new roof unless it is a large property. The other stuff is relatively minor and as hoploz says just gets done together with the roof work.

    Seperate drains? If they are causing a problem (leaking etc) then when renewing /repairing you may have to seperate them. otherwise if it ain't broke don't fix it!

    damp/timber? there is no statement regarding the condition. What makes the surveyor think you need a contractor?

    Lead piping? Thousands of homes have this (I do), and unless it fails (leaks) why replace it? No - you don't get lead poisoning unless the water sits in the pipe for very long periods. If you are using water, it just runs through...

    Oh, similarly, unless it is leaking (no indication) why replace a beautiful cast iron hopper with a ghastly modern upvc one!!!!

    Standard 1930s semi-detchached - nothing special at all.
    Total space over 2 floors is 120 SqM so not huge, no.

    I think the Lead pipe replacement related to the drinking water from the mains tap in the kitchen.
    Mortgage free for 5 months :T Then got another mortgage:rotfl:
  • Hoploz
    Hoploz Posts: 3,888 Forumite
    Has the attached neighbours roof been replaced? Might give you an idea whether it's necessary ... If the rest of the road have all been done it would indicate you're going to have to as well some time soon
  • steve2005
    steve2005 Posts: 252 Forumite
    From what we've seen from ground level, it doesn't look like any of the houses in the immediate area (5 either side) have had new roofing, apart from the the non attached neighbours, but they've extended upwards so that had a new roof put on as part of the extension only.
    Mortgage free for 5 months :T Then got another mortgage:rotfl:
  • lxpeanut
    lxpeanut Posts: 8,728 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    If your foul is going into a surface water in a 1930's house its likely to be going straight to a river which is why the regulations say they have to be separated. You can be prosecuted if they are found to be causing pollution. Look here http://www.connectright.org.uk/
    "You are entitled to your own opinions but not your own facts" - Arthur Schlesinger

    Proud to be have dealt with my debt :D Debt Free Sept 2012
  • lxpeanut
    lxpeanut Posts: 8,728 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Hoploz wrote: »
    but separating the drainage? There must be millions of houses out there which still have this system, it's perfectly normal, we just do it differently these days!

    The change was around the 1920's so a 1930's house was unlikley to have been built with combined drainage. Its likely someone has done some work and wrongly connected the foul into the existing surface water. In some areas though it doesnt matter in others it means your sewage is going straight into a river.
    "You are entitled to your own opinions but not your own facts" - Arthur Schlesinger

    Proud to be have dealt with my debt :D Debt Free Sept 2012
  • Hoploz
    Hoploz Posts: 3,888 Forumite
    Well perhaps the OP would like to ask the surveyor to confirm which way around it is ... Has the foul water been connected to surface drainage, which would clearly be a problem, or whether it's just that the rainwater goes into the foul drains, which would be of little consequence. The surveyor should be able to give their opinion if asked.
  • steve2005
    steve2005 Posts: 252 Forumite
    I'll be speaking to the surveyor again on Monday. They have been extemely helpful so far and happy to answer questions and offer advice.
    I'll let you know what they say - thanks for everything so far.
    Mortgage free for 5 months :T Then got another mortgage:rotfl:
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