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Problem with different floor heights?
martin1959
Posts: 363 Forumite
Have a bungalow with floorboards and looking to tile bathroom with insulation boards and U/F heating. This will make the finished floor about 22mm higher than the rest of the house....
Searched for ages for a solution and found these....
http://www.berkshiretradeflooring.co.uk/buy/easy-shims/
Never seen them before, and despite asking for advice in many forums, other than using door thresholds, no one has come up with a solution.
If anyone is in a similar situation hope these may help.... I have nothing to do with the Company that sells them!!
Searched for ages for a solution and found these....
http://www.berkshiretradeflooring.co.uk/buy/easy-shims/
Never seen them before, and despite asking for advice in many forums, other than using door thresholds, no one has come up with a solution.
If anyone is in a similar situation hope these may help.... I have nothing to do with the Company that sells them!!
20 plus years as a mortgage adviser for Halifax (have now retired), and I have pretty much seen it all....:D
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But these are for carpetted floors that are higher than the tiled floor, not the other way around. You can't slope off a tiled floor. The whole thing has to be the same level. Hence that's why you put in a threshold.Eat vegetables and fear no creditors, rather than eat duck and hide.0
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But these are for carpetted floors that are higher than the tiled floor, not the other way around. You can't slope off a tiled floor. The whole thing has to be the same level. Hence that's why you put in a threshold.
Have another look Phill. I think it is you that have got it wrong.
These are for carpeted floors that need to be raised to the level of an adjacent tiled floor.0 -
You should have removed the floor and replaced with 25mm marine plywood, insulate under with kingspan and seal all joints with expanding foam
This would leave a far superior install, set points on the UFH would be reached and the floor temps would remain high once turned off. Also levels between rooms would remain the sameHi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure0 -
I have a flat with concrete floors, and two rooms plus part of the hallway are above an empty space making the floors very cold in those areas (when you walk along the hallway in your socks you can feel it change). I cannot insulate underneath from the outside as it's a listed building, and would love to find a way to insulate from the inside without having an issue with differing floor heights. Any slope/step would be part-way down the hall, rather than in a doorway, so it would be extra-dangerous if it wasn't done sensibly.
I'm sorry I have no actual advice for you, but I will be watching this thread with interest to see whether there's anything that will help me!
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You should have removed the floor and replaced with 25mm marine plywood, insulate under with kingspan and seal all joints with expanding foam
This would leave a far superior install, set points on the UFH would be reached and the floor temps would remain high once turned off. Also levels between rooms would remain the same
Remove 18mm floor boards and replace with 25mm marine ply...
That's 7mm to start with...
Tiles adhere to the cement coated insulated backer board far better than to ply, so would still want to use 6mm Marmox boards. Even if I did tile straight onto the ply, I would have 7mm, 3-4mm for the adhesive and U/F wires, plus 10-12mm for the tiles.
This would still make a noticeable height difference of 20-25mm. Carpet and underlay would only take account of about half this.
If I was really keen, I could remove the floorboards and shave 20mm of each of the joists, and then follow your suggestion, but that is a bit too much agro.....
It is just that these look like a reasonable simple, fairly low cost solution.
Thanks anyway...20 plus years as a mortgage adviser for Halifax (have now retired), and I have pretty much seen it all....:D0 -
martin1959 wrote: »Remove 18mm floor boards and replace with 25mm marine ply...
That's 7mm to start with...
Tiles adhere to the cement coated insulated backer board far better than to ply, so would still want to use 6mm Marmox boards. Even if I did tile straight onto the ply, I would have 7mm, 3-4mm for the adhesive and U/F wires, plus 10-12mm for the tiles.
This would still make a noticeable height difference of 20-25mm. Carpet and underlay would only take account of about half this.
If I was really keen, I could remove the floorboards and shave 20mm of each of the joists, and then follow your suggestion, but that is a bit too much agro.....
It is just that these look like a reasonable simple, fairly low cost solution.
Thanks anyway...
Shave 20mm of joists??? Are you for real
Every install we do we strip the floor back,18mm ply is too thin , 22mm yes but you won't get a decent marine ply of the shelf from your trade outlets .
Even overboarding with 6mm wedi type board offers little insulation and you must bond to substrate too.
You will always end up with a step, most laminates or carpet in hallway will allow you to have a slight increaseHi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure0 -
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Wish I'd seen these sooner!

Thanks op
No longer trainee
Retired in 2012 (54)
State pension due 2024 (66)
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