Removing Car Scratches

NathanMorgan

I've recently bought a new car which is metallic black and I've noticed that there are a few scratches on the bonnet.

What are your go-to products to remove these types of scratches?

- Nathan

DUTR

NathanMorgan wrote: »

I've recently bought a new car which is metallic black and I've noticed that there are a few scratches on the bonnet.

What are your go-to products to remove these types of scratches?

- Nathan

Depends on the type of scratches, not everything will polish out, and there is not much between the product's performance if the user is applying the correct techniques.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

NathanMorgan wrote: »

I've recently bought a new car which is metallic black and I've noticed that there are a few scratches on the bonnet.

What are your go-to products to remove these types of scratches?

- Nathan

Depends how deep they are. How thick the paint on the bonnet is and how well you understand paintwork. To recommend a product I would have to see it. metallic black is the worse paint in the world to show scratches and any imperfections in body work.


No doubt many would say a bit of t cut scratch remover or something, but getting the right product first time can save allot of effort in the long run.


could you get a pick up put a space in between http:// and www. and ill then ill take a look


watch this guy and check out a few of his video's itll explain allot to you.


https://www.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom/videos

Geodark

Can you feel them with your nails or are the surface scratches only? will make a big difference as to what you need to do to get rid...

facade

But whatever you do, don't buy those "Color Match" polishes that 'hide' scratches.

They don't, if anything they make them show up more.

NathanMorgan

Geodark wrote: »

Can you feel them with your nails or are the surface scratches only? will make a big difference as to what you need to do to get rid...

I can feel it slightly while I put my nail to it. I've tried the AutoGlym Super Resin polish but that hasn't helped.

NathanMorgan

will T-Cut scratch remover help or will it dull the paintwork?

straighttalker

If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it's probably gone through the clearcoat and through to the base layer in which case you'll need a respray.

Super Resin Polish does have a small amount of cutting agent in it which will help with small scratches but it also has fillers in which will fill in very minor imperfections like swirl marks and hologramming. If you do want to try polishing the scratches, you'd probably need a machine polisher or a dual action polisher which is a motorised buffing bonnet. Clean the paintwork, and then use quite an aggressive polish which. Used with a rotary polisher, it can remove the very top layer of clearcoat. Not for the feint hearted! A dual action machine is safer as it moves in random orbital directions and can't burn through the paint. Once polished, you need to buff and apply some wax too. If that doesn't work, you'll need a respray.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

NathanMorgan wrote: »

will T-Cut scratch remover help or will it dull the paintwork?

Think of a scratch as a V shaped valley in the lacquer, you could feel it with you nail but it doesn't mean its through the clear coat.


The Aim here is to use a cutting paste that will take the area around the V shaped valley and level it down so it not so prominent or if it not so deep take that V shaped away form the clear (but this then makes that area thin in clear coat and caution when polishing is needed in future), then use a resin type polish to fill in that V and buff it to a shine, then seal that polish in the valley with a specialist sealant, then to protect that sealant you apply a wax.


I would use a product such as G3 ferracla rubbing or scratch remover compound on closed cell polish pad and go steady in crossing the V rather than flow with it, once you know you gone down quite a bit and its not through the paint, buff in G3 paint renovater, then buff on some maguire sealant and leave for 24hours (need a dry couple of days for this), then buff this off and carnuba wax it. it should look much more presentable and sealed for 12 months. youd have to repeat this process if you use harsh chemical shampoo's on the car from a automated car wash


EDIT only repeat the process from sealant and waxing when you wash car in a automated car wash (why would use one for a start they scratch the car not clean it), but other shampoo's are quite harsh and will degrade the wax, but you should not compound paste it after you've done it already or use a harsh cutting polish, just seal and wax in that area after you done trying to remove.


you really should have a pic up for us to look at OR have the paint thickness measured before attempting to do anything, if its not been repaired in the past i.e some lacquers are soft and some are rock solid some are real thin and some are thicker from factory, either case I wouldn't be compounding nothing till I knew.

Iceweasel

Autoglym SRP is good stuff but it's not suited to black.

It's ideal for silver and light colours.

What you need first is Farecla paste.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/cleaning-products/paint-restorers/farecla-g3-permanent-scratch-remover-paste-150ml

Then you can use Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine which is designed for dark colours.

If Farecla doesn't remove or mask the scratches enough I would suggest you contact a professional detailer rather then trying it yourself with a polishing machines.

I know several people who were of the opinion "How hard can it be to use a machine - I'll buy one on eBay."

Be careful.

Geodark

I had an MGF years ago and the previous owner had try to polish out a scratch that was too deep and made the whole thing a lot worse - I ended up having to re-spray the area - was nightmare getting it right as it was metallic. Might be worth speaking to a touch-up company or a detailing company and getting a quote before you do anything.