Camera - best for northern lights?

[Deleted User]

gjchester wrote: »

High ISO means more noise, a set of shorted (say 5 to 10 sec) long exposures stacked together with "blank" image taken out may be better as it should take out any hot pixels.

Doesn't the stacking process accumulate noise in the same way that a long exposure does? (Just wondering)

I managed to get some very good long exposure shots out of a Canon Ixus I had 10 years ago.. it was only 3mp but still performed.

InsideInsurance

You simply need a camera that has full manual control as the electronics are highly unlikely to be able to correctly expose for the lights for you.

I guess there is a chance that a "fireworks" mode may work but assuming this is being pegged as a once in a life time trip then I wouldnt be risking it.

All SLRs have full manual mode and so are the obvious choice but inevitably some bridge and compact cameras may well too.

The other consideration is noise and again typically SLRs with their larger sensors suffer less issue than others.

bluesnake

ringo_24601 wrote: »

Doesn't the stacking process accumulate noise in the same way that a long exposure does? (Just wondering)

No, it improve the noise. Because the noise is random, after afew shots are stacked together, the noise gets averaged out while, the pixels on cue also get averaged, but becaus they are in theory all the same value, they do not change. There was a free bit of software out here that takes night sky views, but apparently after taking many shotts it actually built up a sky photo/map/chart/pick the correct name???, rather than smeary moving white lines.

Norman_Castle

As the lights are moving using movie mode might be easier.

Pthree

I would think whatever the camera the most important thing you need if your planning on using long exposure is a tripod.

tafelmoneysaver

ringo_24601 wrote: »

quite a few cameras have a 2 sec timer mode

Talking only about my camera, the maximum exposure setting is 30 seconds so I have to use bulb mode to get an exposure longer than this.

I could use the 2 sec timer but I would need to keep pressing the shutter button to keep the shutter open. This will cause shaking in the camera. Using the remote control means I do not have to touch the camera, thus keeping it still on the tripod.

Here's an example (resolution is massively reduced to bring down the file size):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lt0v16rnsxnwfyc/IMGP7173_1.jpg?dl=0

mrsscattercushion

here's a link to a guide to photographing the Northern lights (with a DSLR)

http://www.wanderlust.co.uk/magazine/articles/advice/photographing-the-northern-lights?page=all

In terms of equipment, it does depend on what you wish to photograph, your budget etc. Prices of DSLR cameras have come down a lot and there is a wide range of models out there. It is worth thinking about what you want to photograph most of the time and how versatile you need it to be. It also doesn't have to be one of the "big 2", Canon and nikon.

Good glass (lens) is vital. There are good 3rd party lens, such as Sigma, Tamron etc that give good results for a fraction of the price of Canon or Nikon.

There are also some v good second-hand deals out there. I bought my main camera (I do mainly wildlife photography) secondhand because I wasn't paying £4k for it!

Having shot the northern lights for the 1st time in Scotland last year, I would definitely recommend tripod and cable release ~ I picked up one v cheap! Also gloves for the hands

good luck!

Big_Graeme

The only thing missing from that guide is the mention of a remote trigger, they can be picked up pretty cheaply on eBay for most DSLR's and reduce the risk of moving the camera when pressing the shutter, vital in bulb mode.

mrsscattercushion

Big_Graeme wrote: »

The only thing missing from that guide is the mention of a remote trigger, they can be picked up pretty cheaply on eBay for most DSLR's and reduce the risk of moving the camera when pressing the shutter, vital in bulb mode.

just added that detail in my edited post....good thinking! :T

RealGem

Also bracket by taking photos at different shutter speeds, as each light effect will be different.

http://photo.net/travel/iceland/aurora-borealis/