car maintenance questions

arcon5

Plus if you've got a cheapo jack it'll give you an extra few inches of clearance.
I usually just whack some wood on the jack and go straight for the subframe to lift the whole axle, or crossmember for rear (although you can't always do this at rear if its a tubular members).

Yes, you really shouldn't with the cheapo jacks and this and that blah blah blah

red_eye

Norman_Castle wrote: »

The main reason I drilled the holes was to try a pillar drill I had been given. Anyone who thinks two extra holes will weaken the stands deserves the award.
Pump the handle?. Thats genius. Thanks.

Didn't say it would weaken the stand.

The genius was to drill holes because you did not jack up enough or did you say the jack does not lift enough in that case the genius would buy a trolly jack and stop using the kit in the boot.

red_eye

arcon5 wrote: »

The modified axle stand looks okay to me too - but I wouldn't, ever, modify one. I don't know what design considerations went in to the product, whether the gap is the width apart for a reason, because of the material it's made from or the width or manufacturing process or what.

With cars, pretty much every curve, shape, whatever is done for a reason, often because of the geometry changes during varying driving conditions etc etc.
I fear there's very specific considerations when designing axle stands - however simple they may look to a non-engineer. And it's for this reason i'd never modify one of the most safety critical devices used when repairing a car.
But I appreciate peoples opinions will vary.

diffrent grades of steel, the hardness of the steel even if the tube was welded flat bar or extruded. all contributes to the strength of the stand, it could be made out of poop and still pass safety tests.