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joining 40mm oak worktops
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nicke20
Posts: 64 Forumite

I have done propper routed joint with cut outs for three clamp fixing kits
the work tops will be danish oiled and fixed to cupboard tops.
Now if I glue the joint and i ever need to lift one half of the work tops to get at the back of the sink (belfast) the joint will be a problem, if i leave it unglued and just clamp it up life would be slightly easier. this may never be needed! its an if!
is there a problem with not glueing just clamping? will they "move" over time?
the work tops will be danish oiled and fixed to cupboard tops.
Now if I glue the joint and i ever need to lift one half of the work tops to get at the back of the sink (belfast) the joint will be a problem, if i leave it unglued and just clamp it up life would be slightly easier. this may never be needed! its an if!
is there a problem with not glueing just clamping? will they "move" over time?
0
Comments
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I would glue to stop water getting in. The glue would not be wrong enough to stop you taking it apart.0
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You should not mitre solid wood tops. Use a router and just do a straight joint. The joint will open as the wood contracts with humidity
Biscuit joint and zip bolt will be enough, you can always silicone the joint
Osmo top oil is the better option, 4x the price of Danish but 4x as durable !! Remember to do all sides and cut outs , would suggest 2-3 coatsHi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure0 -
thanks andy, the joint is already cut, i just liked the finish of the routed joint, and i have already applied 3 coats of danish oil (rustins) on all surfaces
i plan to wire wool the finish before giving a final coat, perhaps i can apply your recomendation next time.0
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