Fused spur

I have 13amp fused spur box from the high street retailer. It has a 13amp fuse in it. Can i simply replace that fused with a 32amp one and use it as a 32amp fused spur? it sounds too simple to be true
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Comments

  • molerat
    molerat Posts: 34,233 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    No, those boxes are only rated to 13A.
  • ryantcb
    ryantcb Posts: 273 Forumite
    molerat wrote: »
    No, those boxes are only rated to 13A.

    Thank you. very helpful
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  • zax47
    zax47 Posts: 1,263 Forumite
    No, but then you wouldn't find a 32A fuse to fit anyway - they don't make them. (for a reason, idiots would fit them!!)

    Why do you want a 32A spur anyway? What about the cable feeding it - is it rated to 32A? Sorry but just asking the question, as you sound like you might be a potential danger to yourself and others (speaking as an electrician).
  • where are you getting the supply for this 32A 'spur' from, and what do you want to power from it?
    A kind word lasts a minute, a skelped erse is sair for a day.
  • phill99
    phill99 Posts: 9,093 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    where are you getting the supply for this 32A 'spur' from, and what do you want to power from it?

    Something tells me he's going to try and run a hob or cooker off of it!
    Eat vegetables and fear no creditors, rather than eat duck and hide.
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    A 32A fused spur ? must ask MK to make one .... classic ! :beer:
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • ryantcb
    ryantcb Posts: 273 Forumite
    zax47 wrote: »
    No, but then you wouldn't find a 32A fuse to fit anyway - they don't make them. (for a reason, idiots would fit them!!)

    Why do you want a 32A spur anyway? What about the cable feeding it - is it rated to 32A? Sorry but just asking the question, as you sound like you might be a potential danger to yourself and others (speaking as an electrician).
    where are you getting the supply for this 32A 'spur' from, and what do you want to power from it?
    phill99 wrote: »
    Something tells me he's going to try and run a hob or cooker off of it!

    Yes all true. I am replacing my gas hob with an Induction hob. I would have assumed that the induction hob could run off the 230v ring main feed that was feeding the ignition to the old gas hob? The Induction hob is max 7.2kw / 230 volts = 32amp (rounded up). So I figured if I put a 32amp fuse in then it would protect the circuit.

    I will be getting an electrician to do the work as its in kitchen so need part P plus I don't like fires. I just had a spare fused spur that was used with the gas hob and was wondering if I could reuse.

    How should an 7.2kw induction hob be wired in and will it need it's own feed from the consumer unit?
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  • thescouselander
    thescouselander Posts: 5,547 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 14 January 2015 at 9:51AM
    Normally you'd just run it off the cooker circuit - haven't you got one of these already? If not the electrician will probably put one in which is essentially a direct 32a feed from the consumer unit with a dual pole switch near the appliance so it can be isolated.

    The other option might be to run a 20 A spur as that would do by the time load diversity is applied (although this would need to be checked as induction hobs can be a bit funny). I'd recommend going for a 32A cooker circuit though in case you want to wire an oven or a conventional cooker in at some point.

    Also recent changes to part P have taken kitchens off the "special locations" list but since it sounds like you need a new circuit you'll still need a qualified sparky anyway.
  • ryantcb
    ryantcb Posts: 273 Forumite
    Normally you'd just run it off the cooker circuit - haven't you got one of these already? If not the electrician will probably put one in which is essentially a direct 32a feed from the consumer unit with a dual pole switch near the appliance so it can be isolated.

    The other option might be to run a 20 A spur as that would do by the time load diversity is applied (although this would need to be checked as induction hobs can be a bit funny). I'd recommend going for a 32A cooker circuit though in case you want to wire an oven or a conventional cooker in at some point.

    Also recent changes to part P have taken kitchens off the "special locations" list but since it sounds like you need a new circuit you'll still need a qualified sparky anyway.


    Ill do just that. Thanks so much :beer:
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