Not sure who is to blame here

matw2

Hi folks, hope you can help. It's a bit of a long winded tale!

My scooter was serviced a couple of months ago and the mechanic said that the electrolyte in the battery was low so I went and got a new one. The shop I bought it from ordered it from elsewhere but had to pour the acid in themselves. I paid cash as they didn't take card payments.

A few weeks ago my scooter wouldn't start - battery flat; I had to get it recovered and took it back to the mechanic. He said that there were some connectors that were dirty and when he did that the voltage going into the battery improved. I picked it up and within 2 weeks the battery was flat again. The scooter went back and forth 4 times in all, each time with the mechanic tinkering, replacing connectors and relays etc and then saying it was fixed. Eventually the mechanic has concluded the battery is a dud.

Now I have spent £140 total with the mechanic. The shop who sold me the battery say they are going to take it up with the supplier but I'm really not sure I'll get anywhere with anyone.

The supplier is likely to say the shop added the acid so it's their fault, the shop isn't the supplier and is trying to pass the buck and the mechanic said that I provided the battery.

I'm not exactly happy that the mechanic didn't notice a dud battery the first 3 times he had the scooter either!

david39

Are you sure it is a dud battery?
As the battery works for 2 weeks after the mechanic has fixed it, it sounds to me that battery is not being charged while you are driving the scooter and that the lights and starter are gradually discharging it during that time.
Perhaps you should get someone else to check the charging rate. A quick check would be to start the bike, put all the lights on and rev the engine. If the lights don't brighten up as you rev the engine there is little or no charge going into the battery.

matw2

I'm reasonably sure it's the battery. I've tested the voltage going into it and that's fine.

The mechanic said when he was charging the battery it was showing as fully charged after 2 hours when it should take more like 12 hours so the battery is no good.

maninthestreet

matw2 wrote: »

I'm reasonably sure it's the battery. I've tested the voltage going into it and that's fine.

It's the current (AMPS) you need to measure to determine if the battery is being charged.

Laz123

As above. If the solenoid isn't working it won't charge the battery. If it's not the solenoid the battery should have a guarantee for at least three years.

shaun_from_Africa

maninthestreet wrote: »

It's the current (AMPS) you need to measure to determine if the battery is being charged.

Measuring the charging voltage is a perfectly good way to check if the battery is being charged and doing it this way is far easier and safer than than using an ammeter.
To test the charging current you have to disconnect the battery and put the ammeter in series with it and this requires having a meter that will be able to read quite a high current where as with a voltmeter you simply connect it to the battery without disturbing the system.

Provided the alternator output voltage is above about 13.8 volts then you can be reasonably sure that the charging circuit will be functioning then all you need to do is to get the battery checked using a loadmeter.

If checking the voltage instead of the current wasn't any use, why is this the preferred method in just about all garages worldwide?

arcon5

Agree with above. Checking voltage is a perfectly acceptable way of checking its charging. You wouldn't find many mechanics doing it any other way

arcon5

It's who sold you the battery that's responsible. That's who you bought it from. If they wanna fight with the manufacturer then that's their problem. If the battery is inherently faulty then they should sort it out

adonis

It might be an idea to check something is not draining the battery when you are not using it.
see here