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Condensing boiler with hot water tank?!
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£2200 to convert to a full combi...
We had quotes in for the work, however an asbestos garage roof has scupped that..0 -
As general rule the larger boiler shouldn't use any more gas than a smaller one it will just heat up the system quicker.0
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I wouldn't have thought it would heat it up quicker as it should modulate down and only use the amount of power it needs.0
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We have similar setup..non-combi condensing boiler which we had fitted with tank-fed cylinder. Just set it to come on a few hours in morning and evening is usually enough for us - just set it to come on about 30-45 mins before you get up. If someone has a shower between those times we usually just forward the hotwater for an hour at the programmer . The "water heater" switch in the kitchen is probably for immersion heater...only needed really when the boiler is broken and being electric is a more expensive method of hot water heating..one of the advantages of having such a system that if the boiler is down you can still have hot water.
Only reasons i can think i'd rather have a combi is for higher pressure for showers or to free up space where the cylinder was - though then you don't have a useful airing cupboard.
My sister bought a brand new house this year as a rental from a big national house builder .. non-combi with hot water supply via cylinder...i was impressed that they'd also zoned the heating for upstairs and downstairs to be heated independently.0 -
Only reasons i can think i'd rather have a combi is for higher pressure for showers or to free up space where the cylinder was - though then you don't have a useful airing cupboard.0
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Put the combi in the cupboard and have a little exposed piping, works very well as an airing cupboard.
. If my heating pump fails or 3-way motorised valve breaks i can just replace those generic parts myself. Just a few arguments in favour of not having a combi.
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That's one way and to be fair my insulated cylinder doesn't lose that much heat so most of the heat is coming from the pipework in there anyway..but i still don't want a combi lol. Alot more to break in there and less serviceable for the diyer
. If my heating pump fails or 3-way motorised valve breaks i can just replace those generic parts myself. Just a few arguments in favour of not having a combi.
Ours is in a very wide cupboard and the shelves are easy to remove so it's easy to get to and work on.0 -
Mankysteve wrote: »The op said they downsized by 4 room and now only have one bathroom. That me susgests at most a three bed people on here need toread post better.
I know exactly what it suggests, so why has the OP got a boiler big enough for a mansion, & before you start critizing others about reading & posting better, maybe you should look at your own post as quoted aboveI'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
Is it only one tap which is trickling hot water, or all of them ? If only one, look at the piping to that tap. If it's all of them, are you sure the HW cylinder is filling up with water correctly ?
Also, how long does your boiler fire up for when the HW cylinder timer switches on ? It would probably take over 40 mins to heat up a 180l tank from cold. If the boiler is switching off too soon, check the tank thermostat is set correctly (usually 60 degrees). Or there may be a fault with the thermostat. If the boiler is firing for a considerable amount of time, check the inlet to the tank to make sure it is HOT, else could be a problem with your zone valves and / or piping, which means water isnt going from your boiler to the tank as it should be to heat it up.
An insulated tank should hold it's heat quite well for an entire day. Obviously, if you use up all of the hot water, you may need to have it heated multiple times a day, or look at a bigger tank.0
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