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Help!! Why won't my stupid wooden floor install properly??
Fulham_Mark
Posts: 242 Forumite
So i've got my tongue and groove floor, removed the old carpet and underlay, installed acoustic underlay everywhere left the boards opened for 24hrs ...
...but I can't get the new boards to fit without there being 2mm gaps everywhere!
I'm sure i'm following the instructions...
first row fit together by sliding each into grooves (short ends)
next row each board inserted tongue into groove from above then tapping until both are horizontal and well fitted
then try to slide the new board into the groove in the preceeding board.
except that this never fits even using tapping block and the metal tapping block and a rather heavy mallet.
the boards simply aren't going anywhere once there is a 2mm gap between it and the last one fitted into that row.
I'll either get an ASBO or damage things if I keep malleting it, surely they can't need that much banging?
Can anyone offer advice?
Many thanks
...but I can't get the new boards to fit without there being 2mm gaps everywhere!
I'm sure i'm following the instructions...
first row fit together by sliding each into grooves (short ends)
next row each board inserted tongue into groove from above then tapping until both are horizontal and well fitted
then try to slide the new board into the groove in the preceeding board.
except that this never fits even using tapping block and the metal tapping block and a rather heavy mallet.
the boards simply aren't going anywhere once there is a 2mm gap between it and the last one fitted into that row.
I'll either get an ASBO or damage things if I keep malleting it, surely they can't need that much banging?
Can anyone offer advice?
Many thanks
0
Comments
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Usually, not all the boards need to be driven in by tapping and usually are not intended to be slid into place, especially not the long edges.
Having laid the first, easy, row, thereafter the tongue of the next board is inserted at an angle of about 30 degrees into the groove of the preceding board, then gently but firmly pushed in and down at the same time and should then click into place. Hope this helps.0 -
Yes, I wasn;t expecting all this hammering to slide the long sides into place.
i've just checked and there is no possible way to attach each board without some sliding. The T&G on the short ends overlaps and so can't just click into place. I'm hoping that the problem is due to the very rainy weather we've had and the humidity may have caused the wood to expand.
I nearly got hit by lightening yesterday, then i locked myself out this morning, then i accidentally dropped by door keys in a a huge waste bin and had to climb in to get them...I hope tomorrow is very different and goes better
The instructions are on the web and say..
"Install another board in much the same way, maintaining a 2-3 cm distance between the fronts. Hammer down the board from its shorter side with the hammer and floorboard press, joining the fronts of floorboard
Use the floorboard press to press lengthwise every subsequent row of boards from the front - to remove gaps on front joints. Insert pressing wedges into gaps along walls."
Don't like all this DIY now...should just go out binge drinking instead0 -
Can you post the web address for the instructions?0
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I'm making better progress now. Got heavy duty tools from homebase and all but 2 of the gaps have now been fixed. The supplier tells me i'm doing it the right way and has offered to send some free boxes of flooring if needed.
I'm also sanding the tongue and grooves to be smoother
the instructions are:
http://www.barlinek.com.pl/en/?page=deskabarlinecka_montaz
the nature of the click and slide means there is an extra gap when going around door frames
thanks!0 -
:beer: would you come and lay mine? my oh made a total cack up of it!!:beer:member number 240 in da norn irn club
:beer: :beer:0 -
maybe its fine and you just have very high standards!
mine is now going in a lot better by sanding the tongue and grooves with v fine sandpaper and using the heavy duty flooring toolset from Homebase.
Still have 3 gaps in the hall that aren't shifting. 1 is 1/2 centimetre wide and in an obvious place.
thing is the hall now looks a thousand times better than before.0 -
As colbe has mentioned, it goes together perfect if you push the board in, holding the other long egde at an angle, then push it down. The shape of the joints pull it together properly.
When you get to join two bits end to end just tap the last one into place.0 -
Thanks,
It's been a problem of poor tools and perhaps some very un-detailed instructions translated from Polish into Ingrish.
The key has been to get a f**-off big mallet and a heavy duty "thing" to place onto the boards that are being tapped.
"Tapping" isn't quite right, I'm wacking them but carefully with the "thing" in the right place.
The plastic "thing" from B&Q smashed and also damaged the boards without moving them into place.
thanks for people's help.
I've now done the hall with two bends and around 4 doors. Hope that's the hardest part out of the way now!0 -
We bought the flooring from homebase and my OH and my dad fitted it hall and living room ... it was tricky but it looks fab now cant see any joins or anything .... they had to hammer/guide each peice in it wouldnt just slide and clickHoping to be a thinner me in 2010!0
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It could have been a badly made batch, this happened to me, I took everything back (fortunately I hadn't laid it all) got a new batch and the new batch was a breeze to lay0
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