How to patch heating vent holes in ceiling

TanDiy

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

Filling holes in ceilings should be straightforward especially once the ducting has been removed. Larger holes will need a piece of plasterboard cut to shape and fitting in the hole.

It shouldn't be that difficult to match bobbly artex; a fan pattern or similar would be a bit harder. Any half competent builder should be able to patch a plasterboard ceiling so that once painted it is indistinguishable from the rest of the plasterboard; and textured coatings should be 'good enough' even if not perfect.

Thanks for the info. Yes, the two builders I spoke to were making this out to be a major job and I was beginning to think I was missing something. If we go ahead I will find a good builder. Thanks for the re-assurance.

wallbash

and British Gas said we have to keep these

WE do not use British Gas , have a dedicated Warm Air specialist firm, the engineers father was the one who installed the boiler 15 years ago.
Boiler is the same one as yours, J55-65 /ELJAN pushing out 65,000 Btu/h

Have looked up orig invoice and it mentions

Return Air..
Supply and install one sheet metal duct base, in heater cupboard and connect to existing warm air duct work system

The boiler was installed in August 1998 at the cost of £1868 /25 p

a big air vent in the utility room to allow fresh air in.

Ours is vented into the hall and I am wondering wether to vent now into the kitchen Regs require both grills to vent into same room . not one into kitchen and the other into hall .
I require 80 sq inches at a low level and 40 at a higher level .

If I could vent to the outside I could have half that size.

TanDiy

wallbash wrote: »

WE do not use British Gas , have a dedicated Warm Air specialist firm, the engineers father was the one who installed the boiler 15 years ago.
Boiler is the same one as yours, J55-65 /ELJAN pushing out 65,000 Btu/h

Have looked up orig invoice and it mentions

Return Air..
Supply and install one sheet metal duct base, in heater cupboard and connect to existing warm air duct work system

The boiler was installed in August 1998 at the cost of £1868 /25 p



Ours is vented into the hall and I am wondering wether to vent now into the kitchen Regs require both grills to vent into same room . not one into kitchen and the other into hall .
I require 80 sq inches at a low level and 40 at a higher level .

If I could vent to the outside I could have half that size.

Our boiler is in the utility room and is just open with no cupboard. We then have a vent in the wall to the outside allowing fresh air in - bit of a nuisance as the utility room gets cold in the winter. The return air duct runs from the top of the boiler through the wall for about 11ft to the hall where the return air vent is on the wall just below the ceiling. The boiler itself is very quiet but it is noisy in the hall by the return air vent - you can hear the air - sounds like a fan heater blowing. The return air grill is 15" x 10" but J&S say this should ideally be twice this size? but nothing we can do.

I guess you leave your water heater on all the time with the big cylinder but ours only comes on for an hour morning and night. Heating engineer recently suggested fitting a digital controller to allow separate control of water and heating.

Thanks again for all the information.

wallbash

eave your water heater on all the time with the big cylinder

Yes 24/7

Heating engineer recently suggested fitting a digital controller to allow separate control of water and heating.

We have a duel timer.

Position of you boiler ? maybe thats why you have more noise.
Ours is slap bang in the middle of our house.