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Engine seizure after service

2

Comments

  • Stoke
    Stoke Posts: 3,182 Forumite
    Joe_Horner wrote: »
    Not if it covered 300 miles it doesn't!

    Frankly, at this stage I'd be questioning the second garage's diagnosis rather than (or at least as well as) the first one's work. You would have heard it if it had no oil because even the best engine will sound like a bag of spanners as the big ends knock themselves to pieces.

    Strider's 60 second esimate is maybe a little pessimistic (check out youtube for vids of people trying this delibereately) but 300 miles on no oil just isn't feasible!
    I totally agree, but 300 miles on some oil, I repeat, SOME oil is entirely possible. Engines are made to be idiot proof nowadays and the amount you put in the engine, is in fact, significantly more than they need. Which is why I wonder if they've possibly put the incorrect amount in. An amount for a different car? My car takes 4.7 litres of oil, but the petrol equivalents take 3.7 litres. It's entirely possible the muppet in the garage pulled up the wrong vehicle. I know for a fact my car can actually run on 2.7 litres of oil, because someone did it as an experiment on a VAG forum, however I wonder if the petrol models can run on 1.7 litres, I would hazard a guess of absolutely no chance.

    I would double check with the second garage. You haven't mentioned what car it is but if the cambelts snapped or something like that, that would be absolutely nothing to do with the previous garage.
  • colino
    colino Posts: 5,059 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    It does sound like it has been underfilled at the service. Couple that with them seeming to be very variable on oil consumption, 300 miles doesn't sound unrealistic.
    Get it back to the servicing garage and get them to explain how events could have unfolded differently. It now needs a new engine.
  • Retrogamer
    Retrogamer Posts: 4,218 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Perhaps it was filled enough to stop the oil light coming on, but not filled enough to provide enough lubrication for driving extended periods / higher rpm.

    Either way, i would contact the garage and tell them what's happened and see what they suggest first.
    All your base are belong to us.
  • Stoke
    Stoke Posts: 3,182 Forumite
    Retrogamer wrote: »
    Perhaps it was filled enough to stop the oil light coming on, but not filled enough to provide enough lubrication for driving extended periods / higher rpm.

    Either way, i would contact the garage and tell them what's happened and see what they suggest first.

    Don't forget the idiot light isn't an oil level light, it's an oil pressure light.
  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    edited 21 July 2014 at 11:12AM
    Might have been filled with wrong grade oil, too thin and it fails to lubricate properly, heat is generated, which burns the oil.

    Or more accurately the oil vaporises, passes out if the crank case breather and is burnt up in with the fuel.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

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  • Stoke
    Stoke Posts: 3,182 Forumite
    Strider590 wrote: »
    Might have been filled with wrong grade oil, too thin and it fails to lubricate properly, heat is generated, which burns the oil.

    Or more accurately the oil vaporises, passes out if the crank case breather and is burnt up in with the fuel.

    Very possible but isn't that why we have multigrade oil? Even a think 0w30 would be quite difficult to burn off in such a short space of time...
  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    edited 21 July 2014 at 11:33AM
    Multigrade is to do with keeping the oil viscosity low enough to provide protection at low temperatures, yet not turn to water at high temp.

    I run my kitcar on 20w50 racing oil (Valvoline VR1). Anything lower and it runs like a bag of nails, fills the catch tank and spews hot oil vapour everywhere. Admittedly that's on an engine built to 1960s engineering tolerences, but even on a modern car, going too low viscosity can cause real damage.

    Equally, if the oil is too thick for the engine, it won't flow down the con rods quickly enough to coat the bearings and serious bottom end damage will occur.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

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  • Stoke
    Stoke Posts: 3,182 Forumite
    Strider590 wrote: »
    Multigrade is to do with keeping the oil viscosity low enough to provide protection at low temperatures, yet not turn to water at high temp.

    I run my kitcar on 20w50 racing oil. Anything lower and it runs like a bag of nails, fills the catch tank and spews hot oil vapour everywhere. Admittedly that's on an engine built to 1960s engineering tolerences, but even on a modern car, going too low viscosity can cause real damage.

    I understand the point of multigrade, but it definitely slows the effect of burning down some.

    Either way, I do agree. I've seen cars with too low viscosity sound awful, with tappet issues etc.

    I still think the best course of actions is to return to the garage and work out what the hell has happened.
  • ohreally
    ohreally Posts: 7,525 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Op have you dipped the sump to see how much oil is present.
    Don’t be a can’t, be a can.
  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    Just had a horrible thought.......

    Did the service state an engine flush?
    They might have left that stuff in and forgotten the oil.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

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