Escalating an issue through a BMW Dealership

nids

After my previous problem with my car ( https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/4998475 ) , which has been fixed (new clutch, thanks all), the service manager is now ignoring my emails and calls regarding a few followups;

1) They chipped my windscreen while my car was in their care
2) Another outstanding issue
3) I still haven't seen *proof* of any work carried out

The Service Manager has seemingly decided he doesn't want to deal with me (daily emails and calls and messages to call me back are ignored) and in the one email I've had from him he literally ignored each of my points except one (which was my request for his to re-send the clutch run-in procedure!).

Obviously next step is to escalate it, but to who? I don't want to go direct to the DP, since I imagine there'll be someone else between the Service Manager and the DP? Or is there not?

colino

If you are ignored by anyone at a dealership you phone the DP.
What is a, "clutch runin procedure"?

nids

colino wrote: »

If you are ignored by anyone at a dealership you phone the DP.
What is a, "clutch runin procedure"?

Should be "clutch run-in procedure".

It's this, if anyone's interested;

Run in Self Adjusting Clutches moderately to ensure correct operation.

Caution!
Fast sports driving manoeuvres destroy new clutches!

Such manoeuvres include:
• Driving manoeuvres with high speed differentials
• Overlapping gearshifts with high speed differentials (slipping clutch)
• Very high starting speeds (e.g. when driving onto a transporter)

Comply with the following procedure when breaking in the new clutch:

Break in friction linings with light to medium loads (observe breaking-in program)
Normal driving with many “moderate” gearshifts
Starting speeds on the level up to approx. 2000 rpm
Specific breaking-in program on gentle gradients
Starting speeds on a medium gradient up to approx. 2500 rpm (e.g. when driving onto a transporter.

This procedure helps to create a carbon layer between lining and metal friction surface which generates the required coefficient of friction.

Breaking-in program:

• At approx. 30 km on roads
• Shift through gears often
• Upshifts 1>2>3>4>5
• Downshifts at 2000 rpm 5>4>3>2>1
• Upshifts and downshifts at 3500-4000 rpm
• 3 to 5 times starting on gentle gradient (up to approx. 12%)

Starting speed max. 2500 rpm
Starting speed max. 2000 rpm

Note:

Experience shows that approx. 800 to 1000 gearshifts are required for an optimally broken-in lining when a car is driven “normally” (advise customer)

colino

OP, by the style of writing, I'd guess that rubbish was aimed at the American market where "stick-shifts" are uncommon.

neilmcl

OP, what outstanding issue are you referring to and what "proof" are you expecting. Generally when you get things fixed under warranty you don't get an invoice etc so I'm not sure why you'd expect to have proof of work done. I take the "clutch judder" has disappeared, in which case that should be "proof" enough, surely.

As far as run-in procedures are concerned just take it easy for the next 1000 miles or so.

Kingsd316

Ive had my BMW in a few times for various sensor issue and software issues (iDrive) all have been sorted using the used car warranty supplied, i did not get any paperwork regarding this but they did show me a log that was saved on my key which had all the work listed, maybe you could ask to see this when you are next in

forgotmyname

So the run in procedure is the same as your should treat the clutch in everyday driving?

Caution!
Fast sports driving manoeuvres destroy new clutches!

Exactly the same as a bedded in clutch, And a partially worn one. Traffic light racing starts kills them.
Slipping them kills them.

Handbrake turns and J turns kills them.

Break in procedure = drive it properly without abuse?

You have not seen proof of the repair? Has the fault gone? Then its been fixed.

nids

neilmcl wrote: »

OP, what outstanding issue are you referring to and what "proof" are you expecting. Generally when you get things fixed under warranty you don't get an invoice etc so I'm not sure why you'd expect to have proof of work done. I take the "clutch judder" has disappeared, in which case that should be "proof" enough, surely.

As far as run-in procedures are concerned just take it easy for the next 1000 miles or so.

Outstanding issue - I paid a £99 inspection fee to my local dealer on the promise from my supplying dealer that I'd get it refunded from them (got it in writing). Outright blanking a customer over £99 is not a great move, imo.

Judder's gone, which is great. But I figured I'd get some sort of document or £0 invoice outlining the work done? This is my first time I've had work done by a dealership so I'm not sure, but I expected a bit of paper saying a new clutch has gone in. What if I want to sell the car tomorrow? How can I prove to a potential buy that there's a new clutch in there? (Obviously don't want to sell!)

I eventually got the run-in done so that's all fine!

forgotmyname

You dont know if there is a new clutch in there so no proof to any future buyer. They may have fitted a used one. Or just stuck a new clutch plate in so all the other parts are used anyway.

They are unlikely to replace parts that have not failed or failing. If you wanted everything replaced with new parts you would have had to contribute towards that.

bigjl

There will be a record on the computer of all work done by a BMW dealer i would have thought.

I know when i had my Jag serviced at the dealer that had sold and serviced it since new they asked if i wanted a full printout of all work done during servicing or due to warranty issues.

I accepted and it is now in my service book

NeverEnough

When my BMW has been in for warranty work, an invoice is never provided as this goes to the warranty company. However, there is of course a record of the work done on their computer system - I always ask my dealership if they wouldn't mind giving me a print out of work they did "just for my records" and they have always obliged. Depends how you ask, I suppose, and how badly relationships have deteriorated with your dealer. I would definitely be going to the DP, especially if you have a written undertaking to pay the £99 fee back which is seemingly not being adhered to.

I would do it all in writing, FWIW, to the DP - much better than the denials which emanate from phone calls.