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Temporary drive way questions (Type 1 MOT v concrete)

ey143
Posts: 435 Forumite


I need to install a new drive way following an approval for a dropped curb by the council. Because of house works that will be happening in the year, I only want a cheap one for the moment to cover 4m by 5m.
The existing surface is raised soil by about 400mm on one side (3m by 4m) and the rest is a paved path with what looks to be concrete underneath (1m by 5m).
I was tempted to have the whole thing dug out by 100mm and then have concrete put in (with a view to block paving it in 2 years time). After doing some research, I have been told by some people to use Type 1 MOT as a base on top of terram membrane and leave it as that.
Questions:
1. Whilst Type 1 MOT looks ugly, is this much cheaper than concrete and would other recommend doing it for a temp drive to accommodate skips and cars etc?
2. Is having a concrete base better than type 1 MOT for the purposes of conventional block paving (we will create a soak away for rain water run off because of council regulations etc). My parents block paving is starting to sink in some areas with whatever stone they put under it (I cant remember what type it was but vaguely remember it looking like Type 1)
3. If I was really concerned about the ugliness of Type 1, can I simply put 20mm gravel on top it? Any suggestions to avoid it making a mess on the pavement etc?
4. I had a quote a local builder who said £1500 for concrete drive inc skip but excluding rain gully / channel and installation with no digger and to take about a week. Had another quote yesterday from a guy a few doors away who owns his own digger machine and he quote less than £1,000 for the same job but with Type 1 MOT instead of concrete and would clear out other soil in the garden and build the soak away. He said however he would use his digger to flatten and compress the type 1 MOT rather than a vibrating plate. Is that ok?
Many thanks.
The existing surface is raised soil by about 400mm on one side (3m by 4m) and the rest is a paved path with what looks to be concrete underneath (1m by 5m).
I was tempted to have the whole thing dug out by 100mm and then have concrete put in (with a view to block paving it in 2 years time). After doing some research, I have been told by some people to use Type 1 MOT as a base on top of terram membrane and leave it as that.
Questions:
1. Whilst Type 1 MOT looks ugly, is this much cheaper than concrete and would other recommend doing it for a temp drive to accommodate skips and cars etc?
2. Is having a concrete base better than type 1 MOT for the purposes of conventional block paving (we will create a soak away for rain water run off because of council regulations etc). My parents block paving is starting to sink in some areas with whatever stone they put under it (I cant remember what type it was but vaguely remember it looking like Type 1)
3. If I was really concerned about the ugliness of Type 1, can I simply put 20mm gravel on top it? Any suggestions to avoid it making a mess on the pavement etc?
4. I had a quote a local builder who said £1500 for concrete drive inc skip but excluding rain gully / channel and installation with no digger and to take about a week. Had another quote yesterday from a guy a few doors away who owns his own digger machine and he quote less than £1,000 for the same job but with Type 1 MOT instead of concrete and would clear out other soil in the garden and build the soak away. He said however he would use his digger to flatten and compress the type 1 MOT rather than a vibrating plate. Is that ok?
Many thanks.
Be ALERT - The world needs more LERTS
0
Comments
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Does it matter if you intend to replace it anyway.
Concrete is not porous, so it will dry the ground underneath.
Concrete will crack and move if this happens
Go for the cheap option, just don't use round pebbles on the surface, they are a pain.
This is a new product in the UK PAVEFAST try searching.0 -
Hi
Thanks for your reply.
>Concrete is not porous, so it will dry the ground underneath.
But the same argument goes for non pearmable block paving, it would also dry out the ground underneath?
>Go for the cheap option, just don't use round pebbles on the surface, they are a pain.
Do you mean the sharp grey pointy ones? Why are round ones no good?
I could not find any info on pavefast, seems to be in french, unless you're talking about mortar mix pavefast?Be ALERT - The world needs more LERTS0 -
For a 20 sq m drive you need pp for an impermeable surface.This is a system account and does not represent a real person. To contact the Forum Team email forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com0
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Pp? What's that.Be ALERT - The world needs more LERTS0
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Planning Permission.
If it's permeable then PP isn't needed
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/7728/pavingfrontgardens.pdfThis is a system account and does not represent a real person. To contact the Forum Team email forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com0 -
I'm using a soak away so no run off into the street so no planning permission is needed.Be ALERT - The world needs more LERTS0
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As you intend to pave over whatever you chose to lay now you need to make sure it has been put down correctly, and that you still have a reasonable difference in height between the paving and your DPC if the driveway is butted up to your house or garage
Make sure the guys doing the job are aware that you intend to pave over it in a few years, if they think you just want something temporary what they stick down may cause you grief in the future.0 -
Do you think there is a huge cost differential between laying a cheap block paving area now of 20m square v leaving it just at type 1 MOT level? I live on a nice road an if I'm bothered about the aesthetics, would an extra £300 cover the material do you think?Be ALERT - The world needs more LERTS0
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