Replacing floor

wallbash

I used a bread knife to cut the sheets to size,

Yes an excellent idea, just try and keep the cuts straight.

Mark_Salcido

Thanks for this. I have seen this it is nice..

Ebe_Scrooge

Judging by this and his other posts, does anyone else think Mark Salcido is post-building for a spam attack ?

IvorBiggun

It certainly was a strange response.

stebiz

IvorBiggun wrote: »

Just a few questions about the replies:

What is a DPM?

What sort of insulation should I be looking at?

I'd get somebody in.

DRP

Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »

Judging by this and his other posts, does anyone else think Mark Salcido is post-building for a spam attack ?

After looking at their previous posts, I've reported it as spam.

cyclonebri1

stebiz wrote: »

I'd get somebody in.

But this is a money saving site so........:money::money:

Normally for ease of fitting, cost and end result I'd say go moisture rated green T&G chip, but given issues of rot etc I'd say standard T&G timber in this case..

The one thing I like is that you have elected for a mains or corded drill, always arguments here but that has to be the first buy.

Chop saw?, now, not yet, get a good handsaw or even a couple, B&Q often have 2 for 1 on S&J saws for a tenner. Jigsaw is a good buy if you plan any other timber work later.

There is a cheaper method to insulate under the floorboards, I used this in all my suspended floors many years ago.

I strung polytwine across the underside of all the joist at about 12 centres, fixed with heavy galv staples. Fit cavity wall batts between the joists, easier to fit than celotex or similar and the tine is just there for reassurance, timber joists swell, shrink and move remember, hard insulation can fall out.