Best way to store a car over winter?

harveybobbles

Recently bought an old E36 328 convertible.

Now that it's fixed my plan is to use it over summer, store over winter, then sell in the spring.

But what is the best way to store it without causing damage/costing money?

Pump the tyres up to 50psi?
Buy a set of steelies and remove the alloys and lay them flat?
Put it up on axle stands? But not sure if leaving the suspension hanging for a few months is good?
Leave the windows open an inch to let air thu?

ilikewatch

Search eBay for "tyre cradles".

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If you were intending to keep it many years

Keep it clean underneath, so no mud/dirt is clinging to hold moisture & cause corrosion.
Make certain that the car is is 100% dry when you put it away in the autumn.
Jack the wheels slightly off the floor
Leave the handbrake off
Keep in a heated garage. With the windows slightly open.

For one winter then sale, I'd just park it in the garage with a couple of bags of silica gel inside the cabin:dry them every couple of weeks.

Strider590

Tyres ain't gonna be an issue, I've had some sat for 8 years on a car with no I'll effect other that natural ageing.


What you do need to worry about is petrol!!!

Because of EU regs, we now use E5 unleaded fuel, this means 5% bio-ethanol.
Bio-ethanol is hydroscopic, it sucks in water from the air and when it does you get phase separation, where the fuel separates into two layers. One of of low octane petrol (around 80ron) and the other of incombustible water+ethanol mix.

Look this up, i sh*t you not.



Not only can most cars not cope with fuel of that low octane, but when that water sloshes into your fuel line its going to cause expensive problems.

This fuel lasts 30 days in a vented tank and around 90 days in a modern sealed tank, before phase separation starts.

The E36 was mid 90s right? Then ethanol also eats old fuel lines, plastic fuel tanks, fuel pumps, injectors, corrodes zinc and aluminium, etc. Something you should consider in future when they force E10 onto us. Anything before 2001 could be affected.



The other thing I would consider is draining half your coolant out and topping up with neet coolant, just to increase the ratio and prevent cooling system corrosion.

Leave the handbrake OFF, put wheel chocks under it instead. You really dont want the handbrake seizing.

Don't worry about heating the garage, a fan on a timer just to circulate the air a bit, will help stop pockets of humidity sticking to the car.
If its kept outside dont use a cover, it'll trap moisture and rot the vehicle from underneath.

ilikewatch

Strider590 wrote: »

Bio-ethanol is hydroscopic

Or even hygroscopic... /pedant

Daz2009

You'd probably be best starting it up once a month,get it up to temperature and drive it a few feet.
If safe leave the handbrake off whilst it's standing

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If you are worried, stick some fuel stabiliser in the tank, if it is old enough to not have a catalyst, the stuff they sell for wintering lawnmowers will do.

Otherwise you will have to pay through the nose for catalyst friendly stuff: 'bike dealers sell it come Autumn, as most boys keep the R1 in the garage over winter.

I've never bothered or had any trouble with stale fuel tbh, it does turn bright yellow over winter though, so something is happening.

Don't keep starting it up for a few minutes, that will see the exhaust off by Spring, either run it until the exhaust glows, or don't bother, we are only talking a few weeks, not 50 years!

In my experience, the biggest problems with a Winter lay-up are corrosion caused by condensation on the cold metal, damp interior and flats on the tyres causing wobbly steering for a few miles.

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Forgot: I always use a battery tender when a car/bike is laid up.

You could simply connect a battery charger every Saturday if you don't have one.

colino

Most important bit for that one (I don't think modern cars need much more than a well ventilated garage) is to thoroughly clean the hood with a good cleaner and conditioner. If you don't you'll probably need a steam cleaner next spring.

harveybobbles

Some good info, thanks. To be honest I might even end up buying a hard top and keep driving it over winter lol.

forgotmyname

Tyre cradles are rubbish. The weight of the car is still on the bottom of the tyre and they still deform.

Move it every month or two. Even if its only a few inches. Stick to the normal air pressure or a couple of PSI over. Never more than the vehicles pressure for a loaded vehicle.

Tank level high or low. Depends on how much moisture is in there. I would run it down to the red and put at least 20 litres of fresh fuel on there before starting it.

If its got an electric fuel pump let that run for a bit to help flush the old fuel out. Even if it only runs for a few seconds. Switch off and let the pressure drop then repeat.

Keep the battery fully charged, On or off the car. A low battery will lose its capacity very quickly.

Worst thing to do is start it up and leave it ticking over for a few minutes then switch off. It either needs to be running for a fairly long time to get upto temperature or dont bother starting it.