Have you found water based gloss marking v.easily? From metal items

JustAnotherSaver

I'm going to get in touch with Johnstones as i'm not best pleased with the outcome.

Bought their aqua water based undercoat & gloss. Not the cheapest. Then i discovered i should lay primer down first before undercoat so then had to buy some primer/undercoat as well as.

This WAS for the stairs - bannister, spindles, door frames, windowledges. I used it on a small windowledge. The finish was real nice.

I put my car keys on the ledge (PUT, not threw) and it left a grey mark on it. So i ran the key over it lightly & it marked it all the way.

I rubbed my ring over it which is tungsten & this didn't mark it. My wife ran her ring over it which is palladium & this marked it badly. I ran all mentioned metals hard over an already oil based gloss windowledge & it didn't mark at all.

It just about rubs off with a lot of elbow grease but you can see a faint mark afterwards.

I don't fancy walking up the stairs behind people rubbing away with a cloth. I'm not keen on the flat look of satinwood, i'm not keen on the yellowing of oil based gloss & i don't want the surface to mark up so easily, but it needs to be quite durable, so we have a problem.


So i need to contact Johnstones to see what they have to say but in the meantime i wondered if others had experienced this? As i'm wondering whether i have faulty tins or whether this is what happens with water based gloss.

cattie

How long is it since you painted the woodwork? Only it takes a while for any paint to fully dry & stand up to day to day knocks & things.

Water based gloss is never going to give you the same durability as you'll get with an oil based paint.

JustAnotherSaver

cattie wrote: »

How long is it since you painted the woodwork? Only it takes a while for any paint to fully dry & stand up to day to day knocks & things.

Water based gloss is never going to give you the same durability as you'll get with an oil based paint.

I'd say it's most certainly 5 weeks now. Perhaps anything from 5-8 weeks.

The thing is, some metals mark it, others don't. My car keys do. My wifes ring does which is palladium, but by tungsten ring doesn't, even if i rub quite firm.

I did expect oil based to be tougher but i didn't expect water based to mark up so easily.


It's just disappointing as i don't want it to yellow but i don't want it marking so easily, but i want it shiny. It seems i'm in a no win situation so i need to decide what is more important.

So long as it doesn't turn yellow-pages yellow & just fades to an off white then i think i'd have to go oil based over water if it's going to mark this easily.

Mind_the_Gap

But oil-based will turn yellow. Since the paint companies were required to change the formulas in 2010, there is no oil-based white paint in existence which does not yellow indoors.

I use the Johnstone's Aqua system a lot and have not found a problem putting any items on it once it has cured properly.

JustAnotherSaver

Mind_the_Gap wrote: »

But oil-based will turn yellow.

I did ask this very question & was quite specific. Maybe it was on another forum.

Anyway basically i asked if it would turn yellow-pages yellow as when folk say yellow, i think yellow. Bright yellow.

However from experience, other peoples views on colours differ to mine. For example - we sell ridge tiles at work which are black to me. Some people call them grey. There's a type of brick called something buff, so you'd think yellow, but they're red.

And the answer came back that the paint doesn't actually YELLOW, it just goes off-white / a bit creamy.

To me, there's a good difference between the two.

Since the paint companies were required to change the formulas in 2010, there is no oil-based white paint in existence which does not yellow indoors.

I read a lot of it depends how much sunlight the surface gets. The windowledge in the master bedroom has been done in oil based gloss. That doesn't mark, nor has it yellowed.

I'm not saying you're wrong because from all the research i did it agreed with what you said. I'm just saying what we've got.

I use the Johnstone's Aqua system a lot and have not found a problem putting any items on it once it has cured properly.

I take from this that you're a painter & decorator yourself as opposed to just DIY?

What do you mean cured 'properly'? Like i said, it must be 5-8 weeks now.

kitty08

I've got very limited DIY skills, but I do paint indoors. I used water based gloss once in my bedroom (I think it was Dulux), and basically it was a complete disaster. It marked very easily, the surface damaged when I tried to remove the mark, and often peeled off. It also chipped on the slightest impact, even after several months of curing time. It did have the advantages though, of drying quite quickly and the brushes wash out in water.
I decorated my sitting room about seven months ago, and also the woodwork on the stairs, which lead up out of the sitting room. This time I used Crown one coat gloss ( because the woodwork was still in good condition, and because I wanted to get the job finished as soon as possible before my husband or one of the three cats brushed up against it!). I've just had a good look at it, and it still looks as good as new. The room is a light room, and the satirs are opposite the patio doors, so get a reasonable amount of light too. I did find a tiny bit of yellowing (to a cream colour) behind a chair leg, but I'm not too worried as the chair is always in that position!

JustAnotherSaver

kitty08 wrote: »

I've got very limited DIY skills, but I do paint indoors. I used water based gloss once in my bedroom (I think it was Dulux), and basically it was a complete disaster. It marked very easily, the surface damaged when I tried to remove the mark, and often peeled off. It also chipped on the slightest impact, even after several months of curing time. It did have the advantages though, of drying quite quickly and the brushes wash out in water.
I decorated my sitting room about seven months ago, and also the woodwork on the stairs, which lead up out of the sitting room. This time I used Crown one coat gloss ( because the woodwork was still in good condition, and because I wanted to get the job finished as soon as possible before my husband or one of the three cats brushed up against it!). I've just had a good look at it, and it still looks as good as new. The room is a light room, and the satirs are opposite the patio doors, so get a reasonable amount of light too. I did find a tiny bit of yellowing (to a cream colour) behind a chair leg, but I'm not too worried as the chair is always in that position!

Thanks very much for your feedback kitty.

Interesting that you had similar results. What marked your paint can i ask?
I did a lot of research before i bought & everything came back the Johnstones Aqua system was actually better than the Dulux similar, so i'm quite disappointed it hasn't worked.

The drying time isn't an issue for me since we wont be moving in any time soon. It could take 48 hours to dry for all i care & stink the place to high heaven. The easy brush washing was nice though but the application of water based was a bit of a pain.

I do wonder though - when others complain of chipping & marking, have they prepared the surface? I have no way of knowing. I ask myself - was it clean? Did they sand it well? Did they clean it & sand between primer>undercoat>top coat? Or did they just throw paint at it. I'm not an expert painter but i've followed those rules & bought an expensive brush so i know i've done all i can.

The only down sides to oil for me are the cleaning & the yellowing/creaming. That's it. I don't mind the smell or the drying time.