MOT -brake binding

faddy

Just had an MOT fail with one item a front brake binding. Garage has quoted for freeing it up, and fitting new pads if needed. What's the likelihood it will turn out to need a new caliper?

mrmot

It's more likely that the pads have seized in their slides, however if they've been like that for a while the lack of movement from the caliper piston could contribute to that seizing as well.

forgotmyname

I wouldnt bother messing. Just get them to swap the caliper.

Probably half the labour cost. And it shouldnt stick again.

Norman_Castle

faddy wrote: »

Just had an MOT fail with one item a front brake binding. Garage has quoted for freeing it up, and fitting new pads if needed. What's the likelihood it will turn out to need a new caliper?

It depends on the honesty of the garage and the mark up on the caliper.

Quiet_Spark

forgotmyname wrote: »

I wouldnt bother messing. Just get them to swap the caliper.

Probably half the labour cost. And it shouldnt stick again.

It may well be a build up of crud and crap on the bracket that locates the pads rather than the piston/caliper itself.

Rolandtheroadie

forgotmyname wrote: »

I wouldnt bother messing. Just get them to swap the caliper.

Probably half the labour cost. And it shouldnt stick again.

This is my preferred garage route.


Remove old and fit a new one.


Even with the purchase cost, it's cheaper than removal, attempt to clean, realise its U/S and then order another and refit anyway.

Westmead_Fan

forgotmyname wrote: »

I wouldnt bother messing. Just get them to swap the caliper.

Probably half the labour cost. And it shouldnt stick again.

it all depends on what vehicle it is & how much one would cost.

unseizing calipers can take 30 minutes sometimes which will be alot cheaper than a new one.

Nodding_Donkey

How much have they quoted and what car is it?

colino

Is this a Bentley that covers 500 miles a year or a Focus that averages 9000 miles a year? Either way, good practice would to be to actually examine it, clean it and replace the pads. One step up is replacing the slides/pins. Anything else is entirely unnecessary as the caliper itself rarely sticks nowadays, it will be where it floats. If a caliper really has seized (the piston and hydraulic seals have seized in the caliper, that is a different matter and while cheapo replacements are available and are thrown on to reduce labour costs, the more exotic get rebuilds.

TrickyWicky

Also depends on whether it's the front or rear caliper. Fronts are a doddle to free up and reuse. Rears can be PITA for the home DIY'er. Not only do you need a windback tool you also have to struggle with the bl**dy cable too.

colino

If your not working on many cars and don't want to load up on caliper wind-back kits, a piece of workshop strapping, about a foot long, can be cut through the middle of one of the preformed bolt holes to make your business end "U" shape and the rest folded over to make a "T" piece to help you wind it in or out.