Tarmac drive or block paving?

27col

andrewf75 wrote: »

Something that lets water drain through!!

You can get tarmac that drains through. I imagine that it would be a bit more expensive than standard.

victor2

27col wrote: »

You can get tarmac that drains through. I imagine that it would be a bit more expensive than standard.

You can get "porous" blocks too. They just have bigger gaps between them, cost more, and you'll get bigger weeds growing in the bigger gaps! When replacing our tarmac with blocks, we incorporated a drainage channel across the bottom so that water will run into the channel and not onto the road.

Hoof_Hearted

There are lots of great blocks available now -- many different colours and shapes. However, it needs to be done properly with a well-compacted sub base. If your drive slopes, you will not be allowed to let the water run off into the road.

adandem

If you can afford it, I'd recommend the clay pavers over the concrete ones. They do not fade at all and stay a lovely rich colour. They are a little more expensive but worth it in my opinion.

teddysmum

When needing our old tarmac drive redoing, I was pleasantly surprised to find that block paving was slightly cheaper than tarmac and it does look better.


Our contractor took more than two days and pointed out that tamping the ground correctly is essential, as shown by some drives with ripples and dips. He also suggested treating the area with a particular kind (not brand) of weedkiller (can't remember which), as it kills seeds before they sprout.

victor2

teddysmum wrote: »

Our contractor took more than two days and pointed out that tamping the ground correctly is essential, as shown by some drives with ripples and dips. He also suggested treating the area with a particular kind (not brand) of weedkiller (can't remember which), as it kills seeds before they sprout.

As I understand it though, it's the seeds that come along after you've applied the weedkiller, and find their way into the gaps, that flourish. Our contractor applied a sealant, preferring the theory that if the seeds can't get in, they won't grow. Either way, I suspect an annual treatment is required, but I can live with that.

Furts

To meet the requirements of local authorities, schools, hospitals etc.:

All block paving should be 80mm deep when used in roads and car parks.

All block paving should be 60mm deep when used in pedestrian areas.

There is block paving available through the DIY stores that is sold as "Driveway paving". This is only 50mm deep. I am not saying this will crack, or deteriorate rapidly - only time and knowing the manufaturer's details will answer that statement. But bear in mind these blocks are about 60% of the depth of car park paving - that is a significant reduction in durability.

A cynical person would say this is intentional. The DIY stores and their suppliers want you to be renewing your block paving after perhaps ten years use! The schools, hospitals etc. expect their block paving to last!

London_Town

Thanks for more feedback and ideas. Hope this thread helps others that may be getting their drive done sometime too.

The cost of tarmac versus block paving is an interesting point. I believe block paving used to be more expensive, but now that appears to have reversed.

joe134

clockworks wrote: »

I went for resin bonded. Looks like loose gravel but is all stuck down. Small bits of gravel are mixed with a resin in a mixer and then laid out.

When I had some work done to my place I had the builder put down a concrete base with a metal grid for strength. This cost me £700 for a space large enough for 3 cars.

I then has the resin bonders gravel down. The resin bonded gravel allows water to soak through which travels down the concrete into a gulley at the front which goes into a soak away.

I preferred the look of this and I won't have issues with weeds sunken blocks etc.

Check out

http://www.flintstonesolutions.com

Hi Clockworks, I have a concrete block printed drive, 20 years old, but needs a re-do.excellent job, but pressure washing eventually brings the top coat off.especially 2>3 times a year, as I do.
My Son had his drive done, block paving,£3k, october,proper brick thickness, they cracked and faded, within weeks.They blamed a bad batch.He had a refund,and they sealed them,they offered to redo it, so he was happy?? reputable company.
I've seen a few of the Resin drives on my walks. but, not sure as to the durability of it, the resin is only MMs thick, would imagine the grit becoming worn where tyres continuosly run.
Looks good though.
I,m looking at having mine re-coloured and sealed, but cannot find anyone that's had it done? so, may look at resin.or other, but do like the stamped concrete, and 20 years is proof it's worth it, so if OP looks at this option, might be of use.My drive is 5 cars+, so expensive whichever way.

joe134

London_Town wrote: »

Thanks for more feedback and ideas. Hope this thread helps others that may be getting their drive done sometime too.

The cost of tarmac versus block paving is an interesting point. I believe block paving used to be more expensive, but now that appears to have reversed.

Hi LT, have you looked into PIC?
Concrete printed, I can reccommend it.No trouble with weeds, just pressure wash occassionally, or brush with soapy water.No more slippy than other in icy conditions;I've also got Heritage slab paths, lethal in icy weather.
best of luck.