New oven (poss hob too?)

Yorkie1

I've got a gas hob in the work surface and a single electric fan oven below (built-in, I think it's called). Not entirely sure of their age but probably somewhere about 8-11 years old?

The hob works fine but the oven isn't 100%. I'm not sure whether the door seals are still intact - when I cook muffins (rarely), they are not nicely domed but are pointed at a 45 degree angle in a single direction :eek: Things seem to burn more quickly on the right side of the oven e.g. roasted veg. I haven't checked whether the cooker is cooking at the right temperature.

The fan is also very noisy.

So, with the sales and everything, I'm thinking of either getting it mended (door seals??) or replacing it.

I believe it's on a 13A plug from what the previous owner has said.

My questions are:

1. If I replace the oven, do I have to replace the hob at the same time?
2. If I went for another single oven, what is the magic limit at which I'd need to get it connected to a 30A circuit?
3. What are peoples' opinions about a single oven vs a double oven?

I live alone so not cooking lots of stuff apart from at Christmas when the parents visit.

Assuming I don't have a 30A circuit behind the cooker already, I rather suspect that it could be difficult to install a new circuit: a cable would need to go from the fuse box under the lower part of the stairs, through a couple of walls and the washing machine cupboard under the higher part of the stairs, then either through or behind kitchen cupboards in a tiny awkward kitchen.

Would be grateful for any comments other posters may have, thanks.

phill99

1. No
2. 3kw
3. It's personal choice and requirements.

If you wanted a double oven on a dedicated circuit, you may find that other works may be required to the electrical system such as new consumer unit, gas and water bonding etc.

Yorkie1

Thanks Phill99. Hadn't thought about the other issues which a dedicated circuit may raise. I *think* the other electrical stuff is OK but if I went for a double oven I'd get a sparky round to quote for whatever might be needed.

Yorkie1

Just resurrecting this thread with another couple of questions.

1. I've seen several single ovens which have total connected loading of 2900W. Some are rated as 13A by the manufacturer (e.g. Bosch), whereas others are rated as 16A (e.g. Neff).

What is the likely reason for this difference in rating, given identical loading?

2. The existing oven (going to a 13A plug) obviously has the cable wired into it at the oven end. New ovens don't come with a cable or plug (even those suitable for a 13A supply), it seems.

Is there any reason why the cable can't be disconnected from the old oven and simply connected to the new oven?

Obviously, after switching it off at the mains ... !

almeria1

re point (2)in last post, we bought hotpoint oven from John Lewis which came with cable and fitted plug and was placed straight into built in oven cupboard.

phill99

Many sub 3kw ovens now come without cable attached. You can use your existing cable, providing its rated correctly.

Yorkie1

Thanks both.

Re. the rating question - if an oven has a total load of 2.9kw, then why would some be rated at 13A and some at 16A? As this would make a difference as to whether I have to spend £00's on getting a new hard wire put in.

Ectophile

A 2.9kW oven is only ever going to draw just under 13A (since 2900/230 = 12.6A).

Some confusion may arise because the power sockets vary across Europe. Many European countries have 16A sockets. So the manufacturer may say it's suitable for a 16A supply.

Yorkie1

Thanks, Ectophile. They're all Bosch's so you'd expect them to be consistent ... but that has put my mind at ease. Much appreciated.

[Deleted User]

My current oven (cheap Argos jobbie) just had a 13amp plug on it. My oven and hob are on a dedicated 30A supply so I just attached a 13amp socket onto the end of the cable for the oven to plug into.