How to stop condensation on internal walls?

bretts

Johnandabby wrote: »

Do you get condensation on the walls, or is it just the windows? Do you have trickle vents above the windows, or is opening them the only source of ventilation? Are the windows single glazed or double glazed, and how old?

You mention drops on the ceiling - is this only in the bathroom after a shower? Do you have an extract fan in the bathroom as well?

Dehumidifiers can end up drying the air too much which is bad for your health, so worth finding the cause rather than hiding the symptom - properly insulated, heated and insulated buildings shouldn't have a problem with condensation.

If you can provide more information, I'll tell you what I think.

Hi
Thanks for your reply, the condensation is only on the ceiling of bathroom no where else, but all the windows are dripping with water every morning, I do not want to guess but after wiping all the windows off, It would be a good 250ml of water in the bowl. The windows dont have trickle vents so we have no option but to leave the windows open. The windows are all double glazed but since we bought the house recently, I dont have any idea as to how old they might be.

I have an extractor fan in bathroom and its delayed timer so it keeps running for about 5 minutes after we have switched the lights off but we still leave the windows open and shut the door so the steam can all stay in.

Only thing I would like to point here is that the loft insulation is not properly done, I had some electric work done while renovating the house and the electricians left all the insulation in one corner of the loft, due to this the floor below the loft is much colder than the one on the ground floor but condensation remains the same.
The problem is that there are spotlights on the first floor and they come out into the loft. I just dont know is it ok to put the insulation straight on top of the downlights. I went to wickes and they told me as long as it is fire rated its ok and all the downlights are fire rated but I was still not confident. I can easily put the insulation back on as it is rolled to a corner but I am worried about the downlights, we dont use them at all coz of the cost but I still dont want to take a chance, if someone can guide on this that would be great too, but if the loft insulation is not done properly, can that be a reason too?

Johnandabby

bretts wrote: »

Hi
Thanks for your reply, the condensation is only on the ceiling of bathroom no where else, but all the windows are dripping with water every morning, I do not want to guess but after wiping all the windows off, It would be a good 250ml of water in the bowl. The windows dont have trickle vents so we have no option but to leave the windows open. The windows are all double glazed but since we bought the house recently, I dont have any idea as to how old they might be.

I have an extractor fan in bathroom and its delayed timer so it keeps running for about 5 minutes after we have switched the lights off but we still leave the windows open and shut the door so the steam can all stay in.

Only thing I would like to point here is that the loft insulation is not properly done, I had some electric work done while renovating the house and the electricians left all the insulation in one corner of the loft, due to this the floor below the loft is much colder than the one on the ground floor but condensation remains the same.
The problem is that there are spotlights on the first floor and they come out into the loft. I just dont know is it ok to put the insulation straight on top of the downlights. I went to wickes and they told me as long as it is fire rated its ok and all the downlights are fire rated but I was still not confident. I can easily put the insulation back on as it is rolled to a corner but I am worried about the downlights, we dont use them at all coz of the cost but I still dont want to take a chance, if someone can guide on this that would be great too, but if the loft insulation is not done properly, can that be a reason too?

My guess is that the bathroom ceiling condensation is due to no loft insulation and the shower steam. Don't put the insulation straight on top of the downlights. Buy some cheap terracotta pots from the garden centre and put these over each downlight - then you can lay the insulation over the top.

The condensation on the windows sounds like the windows aren't performing very well in terms of insulation, and not related to the loft insulation. If the condensation is just on the room side of the glazing then it's likely that the frame isn't insulated and is getting really cold - if the condensation is also inside between the two glazing panes then probably the seal has gone.

I don't know if you have access to a temperature sensor, but you can normally tell by measuring the temperature of the frame and glazing - if this is significantly colder than the air then you end up with lots of condensation, and the only way to solve this is with better quality windows.

bretts

Hi

Thanks for your reply

I will go and get some pots and try and do the insulation over the weekend.

As far as the windows are concerned, yes the frost is on the inside not between the glazing, and I would not bet on the quality of the windows either as I bought the house just few months back and that was in summers but well I gotta live with it till I can get money to replace them, I know it will cost a lot so have to deal with it for some time, I did put draught tapes around the frame last weekend which atleast has significantly reduced the noise and air coming in but no effect to condensation at all.

Thank you very much for your valuable time and suggestions.

lat321

sk240 wrote: »

If you are drying clothes inside i suggest you get a tumble dryer instead or destroying all of your furniture, clothing and actual house in time.

Thats way OTT.

sk240

shirlls wrote: »

No, don't dry clothes in the house, I've been drying them outside since the summer.

I do have the heating on when I'm home, but not constantly, I tend to have the gas fire on in the living room in the evening.

I hoped that having the windows open was helping as it seems to have stopped the condensation which I used to get on the windows.

Thanks for the link for the desiccant dehumidifier, there's no prices, how much are they? What's the difference between a desiccant and compressor dehumidifier?

A dessicant dehumidifier is much more efficient, especially if the house isnt that warm.
They are also much quieter.
Cost wise your looking at about £140 though

diywhynot

Johnandabby wrote: »

but doesn't solve problems with poor insulation and cold surfaces.

MVHR will deal with the OP's issues but obviously require works to address insulation shortfalls. In the short term, a dehumidifier would be appropriate and less costly than running the central heating with open windows.

Johnandabby

diywhynot wrote: »

MVHR will deal with the OP's issues but obviously require works to address insulation shortfalls. In the short term, a dehumidifier would be appropriate and less costly than running the central heating with open windows.

Not sure how you can know that MVHR will solve the issues. The OP had condensation on internal walls which suggests (together with the OP's statement that they leave the windows open almost all the time) that the problem is caused by over-ventilation, not excess moisture being generated internally which is what MVHR is good at solving.

Yes, MVHR might help in this case but so would closing the windows, which is much cheaper... If the diagnosis above is correct then the dehumidifier would be useless as it would essentially be trying to remove moisture from outside air. Again closing the windows is cheaper than running the dehumidifier.

What I suggested is spending a couple of days heating the property properly, and with only a couple of windows cracked open to allow some of the evaporated moisture to be expelled. No-one is remotely suggesting running the heating with lots of windows open.

The source of the condensation needs to be identified before wasting money on 'possible' fixes.

Johnandabby

bretts wrote: »

Hi

Thanks for your reply

I will go and get some pots and try and do the insulation over the weekend.

As far as the windows are concerned, yes the frost is on the inside not between the glazing, and I would not bet on the quality of the windows either as I bought the house just few months back and that was in summers but well I gotta live with it till I can get money to replace them, I know it will cost a lot so have to deal with it for some time, I did put draught tapes around the frame last weekend which atleast has significantly reduced the noise and air coming in but no effect to condensation at all.

Thank you very much for your valuable time and suggestions.

How did it go with the insulation? Did you notice any improvement?

With the window frames, if you're having to install draught strips then you will certainly have condensation issues on them. Sounds like you've done all you can with them until you can replace them.

bretts

Hi John

Thanks for asking, I am actually going to go to homebase and buy those terracotta pots first and then put the insulation on the top, I am also planning to put the aluminium bubble insulation on the top I think it will provide a nice second layer of insulation.
Hopefully I can do it this weekend as I have baby arriving soon after new year and really concerned about the cold bedrooms we have at the moment.

diywhynot

Johnandabby wrote: »

Not sure how you can know that MVHR will solve the issues. The OP had condensation on internal walls which suggests (together with the OP's statement that they leave the windows open almost all the time) that the problem is caused by over-ventilation, not excess moisture being generated internally which is what MVHR is good at solving.

Yes, MVHR might help in this case but so would closing the windows, which is much cheaper... If the diagnosis above is correct then the dehumidifier would be useless as it would essentially be trying to remove moisture from outside air. Again closing the windows is cheaper than running the dehumidifier.

What I suggested is spending a couple of days heating the property properly, and with only a couple of windows cracked open to allow some of the evaporated moisture to be expelled. No-one is remotely suggesting running the heating with lots of windows open.

The source of the condensation needs to be identified before wasting money on 'possible' fixes.

The OP ( i.e. Shirlls)has several issues to address. I haven't suggested wasting money on 'possible' fixes. In the short term, a dehumidifier would have a positive impact on the internal wall condensation (as well in other locations).

Btw, OP...a gas fire used instead of gas central heating can contribute to condensation problems.

Lots of expert advice available online.;)