Nice People Thread Number 10 -the official residence of Nice People

Yorkie1

Had the sparky out this morning from the Euronics shop to investigate what I might need or want to do re. the replacement oven.

The hardwiring won't be too intrusive on the redecoration front, but the isolation switch won't be sunk into the wall - therefore it will protrude on the worktop by about 2" - a bit of a pain as everything else is flush with the wall. That would cost about £200 if I chose to hardwire rather than simply plug into the existing 13A socket.

If I wanted to have a double (built-under) oven rather than the single one I've presently got, then I need to factor in a joiner to remove the edges of the present cabinet and the plinth work.

But the real problem is the gas pipe running up the back wall to the hob. It means that the cavity for the oven is only 535mm deep. And most (if not all?) ovens are deeper than that. So that means that a gas plumber would be needed to sink it into the rear wall. If I went for a double oven, the gas work is more complicated because the current 'joint' for the pipes is lower than a single oven but level with where the double oven would go.

It's looking like an expensive job if I can't find a single oven, powered by a 13A socket, which will fit straight in to the cavity.

I really didn't need this on top of the car dent. It's turning into an expensive new year.

PasturesNew

Yorkie1 wrote: »

Had the sparky out this morning from the Euronics shop to investigate what I might need or want to do re. the replacement oven.
.... It's looking like an expensive job if I can't find a single oven, powered by a 13A socket, which will fit straight in to the cavity.

That's what I've always thought when I've seen this new fad for built in ovens. I've always thought "Bet that's tricky to get one that fits and get it fitted when it breaks".

Old fashioned standalone ovens you just went out and bought one....

PasturesNew

Having a quick google, it might be that Beko, from Currys, might have simple, relatively cheap, Beko ovens that are just 13 amp. e.g. http://www.beko.co.uk/Item/DBM243BG - which, under the specification tab says "13 amp"..... although I've no idea if that means "a plug" or "hard wired, but only 13 amps".

Is there a "magic word" to google for these things?

John_Pierpoint

Doozergirl wrote: »

If you went M6/M5/M42/M40 instead, there's an Asda literally on the island at Junction 2 M5. Depends on your final destination in London and whether you prefer to use the M6 toll

Posh alert ? Seriously though I have used the M6 toll;
I was on a National Express coach and the long "comfort break" was at a nice almost empty service area.

The other M1 bypass goes A14 - M11 depending on your "London " area destination. Yhe supermarket on that route is Tesco on the West side of A14 at Cambridge-Bar Hill

I stand to be corrected by I would guess that Beckton (Docklands) has the cheapest London prices.

Junction 22 on the M25 has a large Sainsbury on the North side of the junction.(Feware iof counting from junction 21 as that is the M1 which pre-dates the M25 and is thus has a double junction. [useful to know if operational difficulties means the police pretend that the M1 is blocked].

Generali wrote: »

I'd chuck the beer if I were you. It's not alcoholic or sweet enough to keep for more than 12-18 months. If you drink it, it'll taste sour and probably flat
So often those are grim words when accompanying alcohol which has been neither cellared nor is worth keeping.

We opened a bottle of 1976 'Para Port' (Australian Port) which had been kept under the in-Laws' house for the past 30 odd years. Words can't begin to describe how bad it was.

These days the average cellaring time for wine or beer is a few hours and so the product is designed for that.

I've not had any problem with traditionally made higher strength English beers from bottles - though those drinking mass produced stuff sold in aluminium (illegal in Japan ?) cans are well advised to drink the stuff before the end of the 12 month Best Before dates.

lostinrates

Thinking about it, I always prefer a stew to a casserole. One of the main reasons I don't like real ranges is I really enjoy hob top cooking. I'm a botherer and and watcher and a smeller often. I like to see, to watch, to smell, to bother.

Given the option to stew or casserole normally I take stew every time. Is that odd?

I'm also after a trivet for the cheese room fireplace, and a cauldron

Although I don't get on with them that well I do have some le crueset type dishes. I do casserole things, or other wise cook in the oven, other wise I wouldn't want such a big oven! I use an oven like old stlyers use slowcookers. I HATE my slowcooker. Its nip either dish washing saving not taste enhancing, things are MUCH nicer done slowly in the oven IMO. But I can see the value when you are going to work. Personally, I'd rather cook in advance and reheat, but every now and then I try the slow cooker again because I can see the value in it.


I guess what it boils down to is that its not just equipment in practicality, its the joy you get from it that lets you out your heart and soul into it more easily. I've cooked on cruddy old ovens and in tiny kitchenettes fine, but I like things that make me feel happy and and joyful and that work well for me. I'm not sure its a one size fits all approach. I'm not sure i'mpve found the cooker that does it for me, even though I think its the prettiest so I have to try and stop looking at twit and look at other options I think.

PasturesNew

lostinrates wrote: »

But I can see the value when you are going to work.

That's the bit I've never understood. It seems to me that most stuff in a slow cooker can simply be made in an oven or on the stove top in 30-40 minutes.

Slow cookers seem to need meat to be cooked first.... and then the cooking times are quite small (6-7 hours).

If you're getting up at, say, 7am and returning home at 7pm, I can't see the fascination or use of getting up at 6.30 to pre-cook your meat and get it going ... on the basis you'll be gone 12 hours.

Might as well just make it. Or make it the night before and nuke it upon return the next night.

John_Pierpoint

PasturesNew wrote: »

Having a quick google, it might be that Beko, from Currys, might have simple, relatively cheap, Beko ovens that are just 13 amp. e.g. http://www.beko.co.uk/Item/DBM243BG - which, under the specification tab says "13 amp"..... although I've no idea if that means "a plug" or "hard wired, but only 13 amps".

Is there a "magic word" to google for these things?

It is now illegal for you to do your own wiring in the kitchen - however simple the task.
A "proper" electrical cooker has its own dedicated circuit that traditionally terminates at a single 13 amp socket plus a hard wired cooker.

So when an under-the-high-level-cupboards strip light decided to go on the blink; I had to buy a replacement and cut off the moulded on plug.

PasturesNew

John_Pierpoint wrote: »

It is now illegal for you to do your own wiring in the kitchen - however simple the task.
A "proper" electrical cooker has its own dedicated circuit that traditionally terminates at a single 13 amp socket plus a hard wired cooker.

So when an under-the-high-level-cupboards strip light decided to go on the blink; I had to buy a replacement and cut off the moulded on plug.

I know nothing of strip lights... never had them in any kitchen I used. They're a posh alert

Yorkie1

PasturesNew wrote: »

Having a quick google, it might be that Beko, from Currys, might have simple, relatively cheap, Beko ovens that are just 13 amp. e.g. http://www.beko.co.uk/Item/DBM243BG - which, under the specification tab says "13 amp"..... although I've no idea if that means "a plug" or "hard wired, but only 13 amps".

Is there a "magic word" to google for these things?

Thanks, PN. 13A means it doesn't have to be hardwired.

Am back off to the Currys site for more research into dimensions ... I may be some time :eek:

John_Pierpoint wrote: »

It is now illegal for you to do your own wiring in the kitchen - however simple the task.
A "proper" electrical cooker has its own dedicated circuit that traditionally terminates at a single 13 amp socket plus a hard wired cooker.

So when an under-the-high-level-cupboards strip light decided to go on the blink; I had to buy a replacement and cut off the moulded on plug.

An electrical cooker which already has a 13A supply and is just a 13A plug doesn't need a sparky to install or separate / hardwired circuit. They're called Plug and Play for that reason. Or so I think I was given to understand by the sparky. (It's academic for me anyway, as the socket is away from the cooker and would need a sparky to do the extension cabling instead of me on my hands and knees!).

PasturesNew

Yorkie1 wrote: »

Thanks, PN. 13A means it doesn't have to be hardwired.

Am back off to the Currys site for more research into dimensions ... I may be some time :eek:

Another long shot might be ebay and the model number of your existing oven... maybe somebody's replacing their kitchen. Set the location to within 10 miles and you can pick it up tonight.