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Need advice on white Gloss
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[Deleted User]
Posts: 0 Newbie

Hi, Planning on paint this weekend but have questions about White gloss.. I painted room 3 years ago and gloss gone yellow after a year.. so question are
What the best white gloss to use..??
How do I go aout applying it.?? do I sand them down 1st before painting etc
What the best white gloss to use..??
How do I go aout applying it.?? do I sand them down 1st before painting etc
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Comments
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Was it dulux? Any proof of purchase?
I got a voucher from them recently, and no proof of purchase but gave them photos.
They changed their formula to comply with some EU regulation and this was a know issue.0 -
I'm no pro, but I just give a light sanding first, unless there's any flaking or bare patches.
I'm sure everyone will have their own experiences but I've found Wilkinson's own brand gloss to be ok - I think it all yellows eventually? Have you thought about a non-oil based paint? Not as hard wearing though0 -
I painted my door with wilkinsons white gloss about two months ago its now gone very yellow.
I usually use B&Q white gloss and that stays white. I wash with sugar soap solution then sand lightly with sandpaper and apply with a brush0 -
i give my customers a choice between having a solvent based gloss or water based , it is swings and roundabouts , with the solvent based , you can get the smooth mirror shine , and it's a bit tougher than w/b gloss , how ever it takes longer to dry , smells and is prone to yellowing ,
dulux do eco sure gloss , bedec / aqua advance ( which is my personal choice or johnstones aqua , the finish isn't the mirror shine , but it's dry in 15 mins ish and doesn't smell0 -
yes was a dulex but no POC since was 3 years ago.... so any white gloss I buy will turn yellow then??? do I need to sand it down0
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I painted my door with wilkinsons white gloss about two months ago its now gone very yellow.
I've had the same, very sensitive to sunlight exposure, I moved a sideboard and you could see a dividing line between the yellower section that had been kept dark and the slightly yellow section exposed to light.
I tried Johnstones but that wasn't much better.0 -
all solvent based white paints will go yellow due to the new formulations ,
stick with w/b and this will not happen , give a good sand down , then give a wash and remove dust , then a coat of undercoat and then a couple of glosses will do the trick0 -
Give Leyland trade paint a go. May well go yellow but won't eviscerate your wallet whilst so doing.
+1 for a really detailed prep giving any paint job a better chance.0 -
DigForVictory wrote: »Give Leyland trade paint a go. May well go yellow but won't eviscerate your wallet whilst so doing.
+1 for a really detailed prep giving any paint job a better chance.
just doing skirting bored doors and windows still, all are being painted too but that aint a problem0 -
I was looking at this myself a few months ago. As other poster said you need a water based paint. It is not always very clear as it is in the small print but I found that looking for one advertised as "quick drying" was the trick. Obviously check it really is waterbased before buying. Most brands have a quick drying version.
It does as the name suggests it drys more quickly than so might be more tricky doing doors etc but I certainly found no problem with skirting etc.
I can't honest remember which brand I used but too soon to confirm the non-yellowing from personal experince yet anyway.0
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