MOT Fail - Ball Joint

revolution1978

Hello

My MOT failed today for:

• nearside and offside ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.2.c.1c)
• nearside and offside ball joint has excessive play (2.2.c.1f)

Is this an easy and cheap job to fix (I will be going to garage but wondering ball part figures)?

And is the car still save to drive in the meantime?

custardy

depends on the car as to cost
some are part of the woshbone,some need drilled out,some are bolted
it will still be driveable but be aware it isnt handling as well as it should

revolution1978

custardy wrote: »

depends on the car as to cost
some are part of the woshbone,some need drilled out,some are bolted
it will still be driveable but be aware it isnt handling as well as it should

Thanks for that

It's a 4x4 Shogun

scheming_gypsy

The car is as safe to drive now as it was before the MOT. Although it'll still need to have a valid MOT

The CV boot shouldn't be expensive. The ball joints, stick your reg number into Euro Car Parts website and see what the parts cost. After that it's just labour which will be an hour or two.

colino

If it is the same ball joints that have worn because of the torn dust covers it is just a case of replacing those two ball joints. Cost of replacement depends on the actual model for parts and labour. Didn't the testing station give you a quote, that's not a bad fail for a Shogun?

revolution1978

colino wrote: »

If it is the same ball joints that have worn because of the torn dust covers it is just a case of replacing those two ball joints. Cost of replacement depends on the actual model for parts and labour. Didn't the testing station give you a quote, that's not a bad fail for a Shogun?

They only do MOTs and not fixes so need to go elsewhere for that. Was just seeing the rough costs on here before I went to a garage so they do not sting me too much

From the seem of it the parts are fairly cheap and add a few hours labour too

nickcc

The reference you give is for the track rod end ball joint not the suspension ball joint. I would change as soon as possible as one popping out would mean loss of steering.

Retrogamer

scheming_gypsy wrote: »

The car is as safe to drive now as it was before the MOT. Although it'll still need to have a valid MOT

The CV boot shouldn't be expensive. The ball joints, stick your reg number into Euro Car Parts website and see what the parts cost. After that it's just labour which will be an hour or two.

What CV boot?

Mankysteve

nickcc wrote: »

The reference you give is for the track rod end ball joint not the suspension ball joint. I would change as soon as possible as one popping out would mean loss of steering.

Track rod end unless you car requires something special is no more than £15 a side and shouldn't take anymore than 2 hours to fit. It will need tracking too.

scheming_gypsy

Retrogamer wrote: »

What CV boot?

the one i imagined between reading the ball joint dust cover and typing the post. No idea where i managed to change it.

Beer_Belly

I just had a go trying to renew the lower ball joint dust covers on a Honda CRV, turned out to be a complete pain in the #rse.In the end I had to admit defeat and took to a local garage, even they found it quite a challenge. The awkward part was dropping the tapered bolt of the ball joint through the lower arm knuckle, despite having investing in a hydraulic separator. Don't hammer away at the end of the taper, try tapping at around the knuckle it goes through instead. The hub / ball joint then wouldn't fit in their press either so it all had to be teased out and replaced by hammer and drift. Cost of decent parts was about forty quid plus 3 hours labour (and a wasted seventy quid on a separator)!