why switch from gas to electric water heater?

Richie-from-the-Boro

matelodave wrote: »

It will only work if you clamp it round the live wire, not just the cable going to the immersion heater otherwise the current going up the live is countered by that going down the neutral and the net result is zero. When its clamped onto the electricity meter tail it only goes on the live one, not both live & neutral.

So the only way is to strip off the outer insulation (being everso careful that you don't nick the insulation on the three conductors) and tease out the live to put the clamp on.

- agreed
- that's what I said in # 27 "clamp the live cable [isolated] only"

espresso

Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »

- agreed
- that's what I said in # 27 "clamp the live cable [isolated] only"

You should be a politician because that is not what you said in post #25 before you had chance to research this.

Your original comment was incorrect and unhelpful to the OP who should not contemplate removing the outer insulation from the immersion heater cable.

Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »

- yes you can - put the clamp directly on the electric cable supplying the immersion heater in your dwelling

Richie-from-the-Boro

espresso wrote: »

You should be a politician because that is not what you said in post #25 before you had chance to research this.

Your original comment was incorrect and unhelpful to the OP who should not contemplate removing the outer insulation from the immersion heater cable.

- no one is researching anything
- the cable is already stripped at the element end
- you continue to jump all over people without clarification

Try a conversation before confrontation, always good advice !

espresso

Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »

- no one is researching anything
- the cable is already stripped at the element end
- you continue to jump all over people without clarification

Try a conversation before confrontation, always good advice !

Still squirming rather than simply admiting that what you posted was incorrect and completely unhelpful to the OP.

:rotfl:

matelodave

C'mon chaps, be nice:beer:

Richie-from-the-Boro

matelodave wrote: »

C'mon chaps, be nice:beer:

- agreed .. .. it just screws up other peoples threads :beer:

- at the cylinder entry point the live cable will have a 'bared' end into a screwed turret
- the clamp bit will only read the field [the inside of the loop / hole] so pop it over the turret or the sheathed cable
- is all that's required, obviously no nugget is going to do it while live, but the clamp is insulated anyway

Andy_WSM

Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »

- agreed .. .. it just screws up other peoples threads :beer:

- at the cylinder entry point the live cable will have a 'bared' end into a screwed turret
- the clamp bit will only read the field [the inside of the loop / hole] so pop it over the turret or the sheathed cable
- is all that's required, obviously no nugget is going to do it while live, but the clamp is insulated anyway

It probably won't be stripped at the immersion end.

The OP is not in the UK and this is not an immersion tank as we know them.

Would be useful if the OP could confirm, but I'm guessing it looks something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-L-electric-hot-water-heater-cylinder-tank-enameled-unvented-/151105874875?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item232e9cabbb

Not that it will make a difference to the running costs, but will cut out a lot of assumptions being made about immersions and dual elements and the 3kW rating - none of which apply to this type of tank.

lilac_dawn

Goodness - so many posts while out at work! Thanks for all the interest!
That pic actually looks like a luxury version - and small and unobtrusive.
For anyone interested, the actual stats are here:
http://www.atlantic.fr/nos-solutions/chauffer-votre-eau/chauffe-eau-electrique/tous-les-produits-chauffe-eau-electriques/chauffe-eau-electrique-blindes

You need to 'telecharger' the 'blindes notice chauffe-eau'. Around page 23 it switches to English. It is a 150l vertically mounted heater, which now takes up over half the bathroom.
No manual switches on it or manual thermostat. I have turned it off via the fuse box.

Richie-from-the-Boro

Its as stated a 3kW direct cylinder PartL complient, the electrical connections will be under the protective cover, just pick the power in and clamp, then switch on and read, switch off when done and re-do the cover. People are getting far too complicated its just a direct heating element.

espresso

Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »

Its as stated a 3kW direct cylinder PartL complient, the electrical connections will be under the protective cover, just pick the power in and clamp, then switch on and read, switch off when done and re-do the cover. People are getting far too complicated its just a direct heating element.

Disclaimer : Everything I write on this forum is my opinion.

Oh dear, why do you insist on posting unhelpful comments about things that you obviously don't understand.

It is not 3kW, the specification states that it is either 1650W or 1800W depending on which heating element is fitted.

The spec states that it takes 5 hours 33 mins to raise the temp from 15 to 65 degrees. It is designed to be left on 24/7 to provide hot water on demand.

You should not be telling the OP to remove the cover and fit a current clamp! There is no point as the rated wattage is known.