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Flooring before (replacing) kitchen?

Order of work question here, from knowledgable DIYers and/ tradespeople...

We have a (long) list of things we want to get done in our flat, including replacing the flooring (currently engineered wood) for solid wood flooring and replacing the kitchen.

Question is- I understand from research on t'internet that it is better to fit a kitchen floor before the units, but our floor (as it's open plan living space) flows from living/ dining/ kitchen space.

Does that mean we'd have to do the floor at the same time (well, immediately before) the kitchen because the units would have to be ripped out to fit?

Obviously, ideally, we'd like the two jobs to be staggered (for financial reasons!) but is it possible to fit the floor properly under existing units? And if so, would this affect the subsequent kitchen refurb?

Cheers for any help...
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Comments

  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Fit the flooring after you have fitted the units. Its just a waste to hide the flloor under the units where it will never be seen. Where you have free standing undercounter appliances the floor needs to go under them so make sure that your worktop height allows for the flooring underneath those appliances otherwise the appliances won't go underneath it once the flooring is down.

    I wouldn't recommend solid wood flooring in a kitchen area either.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • Hintza
    Hintza Posts: 19,420 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Why replace a stable engineered wooden floor with a potentially unstable solid wood floor? What is wriong with your engineered floor?
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    and 827 five months later too!
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone wrote: »
    Fit the flooring after you have fitted the units. Its just a waste to hide the flloor under the units where it will never be seen. Where you have free standing undercounter appliances the floor needs to go under them so make sure that your worktop height allows for the flooring underneath those appliances otherwise the appliances won't go underneath it once the flooring is down.

    I wouldn't recommend solid wood flooring in a kitchen area either.

    Cheers

    units like this (also end units with quality sides)

    1.jpg

    dont have plinths under them, so to get a QUALITY finish, you need to lay the flooring first.

    dont disagree with the other points (solid wood in kitchen) but in a high end kitchen, floor first.
  • Hugbubble
    Hugbubble Posts: 464 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 23 September 2013 at 4:43PM
    Hintza wrote: »
    Why replace a stable engineered wooden floor with a potentially unstable solid wood floor? What is wriong with your engineered floor?

    It's scuffed, dull and looking generally shabby after 15 years use (for 10 years of which the flat was tenanted, before we bought it)...also, it is thin strips and i like the look of thick planks :-)

    What affects the stability? Related question- we have concrete floors. Does that affect what type of floor to go for?

    Thanks for any help...
  • keystone wrote: »
    and 827 five months later too!

    errr confused.com :cool:
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    units like this (also end units with quality sides)

    dont have plinths under them, so to get a QUALITY finish, you need to lay the flooring first.
    You assume 1) OP is having a high end kitchen and b) that they are having an island. Is that likely in a flat?

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Hugbubble wrote: »
    It's scuffed, dull and looking generally shabby after 15 years use (for 10 years of which the flat was tenanted, before we bought it)...also, it is thin strips and i like the look of thick planks :-)
    Fair point.
    What affects the stability? Related question- we have concrete floors. Does that affect what type of floor to go for?
    No the concrete sub-base will take anything you want to throw at it. Solid wood floor is much more sensitive to humidity and moisture than engineered. Both of which you'll find in a kitchen. Thought about ceramic tiles that look like planks of wood?

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Hugbubble wrote: »
    errr confused.com :cool:
    Google Hintza's sig ref the Air Rhodesia Viscount Flight that was brought down a SAM fired by Joshua Nkomo's ZIPRA in the 1970's. They then brought down 827 five months later by the same method in the same place. Sorry if I was obscure.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • Hintza
    Hintza Posts: 19,420 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Hugbubble wrote: »
    It's scuffed, dull and looking generally shabby after 15 years use (for 10 years of which the flat was tenanted, before we bought it)...also, it is thin strips and i like the look of thick planks :-)

    What affects the stability? Related question- we have concrete floors. Does that affect what type of floor to go for?

    Thanks for any help...

    You will be able to get the floor sanded and re-waxed if it is a decent board. I think you have to find out if it is a quality board if it is I would refurbish.

    Solid planks are more likely to warp with UFH, engineered are just more stable generally so don't discount them.

    I can understand you want wider boards but don't go too wide in a small space.
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