radiators on/pump not?

keystone

stewie1098 wrote: »

This looks alot nearer to mine- Thanks.

OK

No CH room stats. On/Off on rads only- no stats.

So central heating is controlled by timer on programmer only. What programmer do you have?

Sorry to sound stupid- 'tracing a few pipes'-What do you mean.?

I mean start at the boiler and follow the pipes around the building to see where they go and what they are conected too.

The cylinder has the onlt thermostat strapped on, what I mean is that in the summer, we turn this to say 60/70, so when the boiler goes on its only on for 1-2 hours for hot water- never reaches 60/70 so rads don't go on.

HW cylinder should be set to 60 degrees full stop all the time. Programmer controls boiler timing even if cylinder stat is calling for heat. But after 1 or two hours programmer turns boiler off.

In winter turn to 30/40 Boiler on all day, rads go on after 30 mns-stay on all day. Hope this explains.

You should still keep the cylinder set to 60 degrees to avoid the growth of bugs. The programmer tells the boiler to fire up and the pump will operate by the same signals. Programmer should (??) have separate settings (timing fo DHW and CH independently but in witer the boiler is on all day as set by the programmer not by the clyinder stat. I think the effect you are seeing is generated by the programmer and not by the cylinder stat.

At moment-fault- rad goes on in Summer (60/70 therm setting) straight away !

I still think you will find that somewhere (when you trace the pipes you'll find it) there is an anti gravity valve to stop the CH heating via gravity circulation when the programmer is only on for DHW. I still think its got stuck open leading to the " fault" you are describing. Whilst I respect Ted's views a little percussive maintenance on it won't hurt IMO. I don't mean muller it - just a few light taps and see what happens. The alternative is to replace it. If you do you need a full bore valve.

Your system really needs bringing up to date with a proper set of controls and the system converted to fully pumped.

Cheers

Mr_Ted

No offence OP but we are unable to get to grips with the problem without knowing the configuration of the system and how it is controlled and some of your explanations contradict normal modes of control

The only way we are going to be able to make any suggestions as to what is causing the problem MAY BE if you post a picture of the CYLINDER so that we can see ALL the pipework in and out of it and any controls/pump attached

cyclonebri1

Call a plumber who can view and explain, would be quicker.