Boxing in a boiler to minimise noise

Calleja

Hi all,

I'm looking for tips and advice on the best (& safest) way to box in a boiler.

The boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate (its a conventional boiler). Whilst I wouldn't consider it particularly noisy myself, it is in a bedroom and light sleepers hear it come on in the morning. It currently has a makeshift 'cupboard' to hide it, but there is no top to the cupboard and its a very weak construction so purely cosmetic, it does nothing for the noise.

As I'm hoping to get a lodger for this room, I want to minimise the noise as much as possible (I've got gas safe certs and CO monitors). Is it safe to box in a boiler of this type completely? I'm aware there are clearances required around a boiler and assuming my cupboard maintains these, is there any issue if its otherwise 'sealed' in (with access of course)?

If this is OK, any tips on the best way to do it, or the costs associated? Is this the type of job a joiner would do (and would they know to make sure its safe with regards to clearances etc)? Any other ideas anyone has to minimise the noise? It may need upgrading in the next couple of years, so don't want to go all out on this in case I change types of boiler.

Thanks for all your help and please excuse any ignorance!

Calleja

Hi all,

Apologies for the bump but just wondered if anyone out there can help with my above post and give me tips on minimising the noise from a not-so-noisy boiler for light sleepers?

Cheers,
Cheryl

cyclonebri1

1 of the RGI guys will pick this up for you shortly, but it is Sat

Leif

Here are the installation manuals:

http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/trade/literature/

Yours will give you the allowed minimum clearances for the boiler. I think the front clearance is to allow for servicing, so it can be less with a door in front.

I imagine you could line the current enclosure with polystyrene foam, taking care to maintain the clearances. And polystyrene would make a makeshift top perhaps, subject to clearances.

At the risk of stating the obvious, be careful with cupboard wall fixings, unless you know exactly where the pipes go. I have water pipes chased into the wall, and I had a gas pipe chased into the wall too, although it now goes straight through.

I am curious how a cupboard is normally fixed to the wall, given that you can't hang one in the usual kitchen cupboard style. Perhaps you need an oversized one, with a hole in the back panel.

cyclonebri1

Leif wrote: »

Here are the installation manuals:

http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/trade/literature/

Yours will give you the allowed minimum clearances for the boiler. I think the front clearance is to allow for servicing, so it can be less with a door in front.

I imagine you could line the current enclosure with polystyrene foam, taking care to maintain the clearances. And polystyrene would make a makeshift top perhaps, subject to clearances.

At the risk of stating the obvious, be careful with cupboard wall fixings, unless you know exactly where the pipes go. I have water pipes chased into the wall, and I had a gas pipe chased into the wall too, although it now goes straight through.

I am curious how a cupboard is normally fixed to the wall, given that you can't hang one in the usual kitchen cupboard style. Perhaps you need an oversized one, with a hole in the back panel.

Piece of 2 x 1 screwed to the wall over the boiler with the inside top of the cabinet screwed to it? Excuse me if I haven't got the drift of your quandry.
My point is that it is an empty cupboard, a dummy infact, it only has to support it's own weight.

Leif

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Piece of 2 x 1 screwed to the wall over the boiler with the inside top of the cabinet screwed to it? Excuse me if I haven't got the drift of your quandry.
My point is that it is an empty cupboard, a dummy infact, it only has to support it's own weight.

You understood my question, and that is a good point that it does not support any additional load.

In answer to the original question, you might be able to use an off the shelf kitchen cabinet, without the back from somewhere like B&Q, depending on the size of the boiler, and the desired finish. Alternatively, MDF finished with wall emulsion paint would do the job. If you can't do it yourself, then a joiner or a competent handyman could do it, with the emphasis on competent, cos there's a lot of bodgers out there. Ask neighbours and friends for a good one.

gas4you

Firstly can we assume it is a balanced flue version of the Ultimate boiler?

Secondly, assuming that it is, you will still need compartment ventilation as set out on page 8 of the installation instructions and these vents will be quite large.

This is important, as if not complied with the boiler will not get a landlord certificate passed next year.

cyclonebri1

gas4you wrote: »

Firstly can we assume it is a balanced flue version of the Ultimate boiler?

Secondly, assuming that it is, you will still need compartment ventilation as set out on page 8 of the installation instructions and these vents will be quite large.

This is important, as if not complied with the boiler will not get a landlord certificate passed next year.

I was making a point earlier that I don't think "we" can assume anything, hence the requirement for a gas guy that actually knows;);)

Calleja

Thanks for all the responses.

gas4you wrote: »

Firstly can we assume it is a balanced flue version of the Ultimate boiler?

Secondly, assuming that it is, you will still need compartment ventilation as set out on page 8 of the installation instructions and these vents will be quite large.

This is important, as if not complied with the boiler will not get a landlord certificate passed next year.

Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question, but is there any way to tell visually whether it is balanced flue or not?

Alternatively, can anyone point me in the direction of how to find the model number so I can be sure to pull up the correct manual?

Thanks again!

southcoastrgi

pull out the tray at the bottom

which flue do you have ?

balanced flue at the top in the pic, fanned flue at the bottom in the pic, both room sealed, open flued will have air vents on the front of the boiler

MrCardigan

For anyone else considering doing this, and as a registered gas installer myself, I would like to strongly emphasize that DIYers MUST ensure that before boxing in any older boiler ventilation is maintained.

Open flued boilers require minimum high and low level ventilation when in a compartment, not just for cooling but to ensure safe and efficient combustion of the gas. Insufficient ventilation could be incredibly dangerous or even fatal, so you might not even survive until next year's service to be told it was wrong!!!

Not wanting to scare anyone, but this is potentially a very serious matter. I would always recomment checking the manufacturers installation instructions or contacting the manufacturer in question. If an open vented boiler, the date plate will normally be inside the door that you would remove to re-light the pilot. Or consult previous service inspection reports which should identify it. If date plate is too worn, there will be a GC number (gas council) in the format GC xx-xxx-xx which would identify the model.

The size of ventilation is dependant on many things, such as boiler output (kW rating), location of boiler, whether ventilation is directly to outside or passing through other rooms and so on. If in ANY doubt, contact your gas engineer first.