Paint Chip Set - How to use?

DBGage

So I have numerous stone chips and scratches on my car that I'm looking to get rid of.

None of these are deep, they are pretty superficial.

I have bought the Halfords paint chip set that comes with primer, paint and a lacquer.

My question is on such small chips/scratches do I need to use all 3 or should I just put on the paint?

I'm just thinking if I use the other 2 there wont be much room for the paint within the chip.

Cheers all.

neilmcl

Never used the Halfords stuff before but if it's not down to the metal then you don't need the primer. Personally I tend to mix the paint and clear coat and apply in one go rather than apply separately.

anotherbaldrick

The lacquer does not go in the hole , it goes over the top like a boil plaster.

If you want to loose chips and gravel rash totally and it's a decent car get a Chipex kit for the paintwork colour. it comes with a bottle of leveller fluid which you rub over to totally vanish the touch up spot.

neilmcl

anotherbaldrick wrote: »

The lacquer does not go in the hole , it goes over the top like a bunion plaster

No, it's supposed to be level with the rest of the paint surface. So strictly speaking, you'd apply paint to just below the surface, then apply clear coat so that it's slightly proud then blend/flat down. Like I said for small, minor chips and lacquer it's recommended to just mix the paint and clear coat together and apply.

OP, it may be worth looking on the forum at http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ for more advice.

Prothet_of_Doom

The way I've done it is :

If it's gone to the metal: Small peice of 1200 Grit wet and Dry held on the end of a match stick with a little water. Remove any rust if it's gone down to metal.

Dry it

Primer and allow to dry.

T cut on a cloth to cut primer lower

Wash and Dry

Paint, allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, paint, allow to dry, T cut. Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry.

Basically, if you don't want a blister then, use T cut or other fine cutting compound to remove the excess.

If you don't care, just forget the T Cut.

I spent the best part of 2 days (most of that I was gardening, waiting for paint to dry) doing lots of little chips on a Yellow Mini.

Finally when you finish obtain really expensive wax, and get the car shinning.

vickssinex

Another top tip - shake the paint stick to mix it, pour some into an empty yoghurt pot and apply it with a cocktail stick. This gives you much better control over the paint than the brush that comes with the stick.

fivetide

Ok company promoting their stuff (which does tend to be good by the way) but the principle should be the same whatever kit you use

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjlI40bBCHs

scotsbob

vickssinex wrote: »

Another top tip - shake the paint stick to mix it, pour some into an empty yoghurt pot and apply it with a cocktail stick. This gives you much better control over the paint than the brush that comes with the stick.

Top tip for the OP.

I have belonged to three car clubs and all the members have done it the cocktail stick method.

Limey

I've usea the Halfords paint chip system before and the paint match was not good at all (Toyota 040 White), it was somewhat yellow when dry.

For the light scratches look at a scratch removal compound. The G3 stuff is pretty good.

red_eye

you get two tools with the halfords set. one of them is a fiberglass poker thing which you use clean the inside of the scratch and a foam pad with cloth stuck on each side, you use this to flatten the paint.

so you:
1) clean with the poker

2) use the primer to build up the scratch to just below level with the surrounding paint, leave enough of the space from the primer to the surrounding paint for 3-4 coats of top coat and lacquer if metallic

3) apply 3-4+ coats of top coat so that its just proud of the surrounding paint

4)buff down with the useless cloth covered foam pads

leave 15mins between coats of primer and top coat to allow to cure.

I have used the ford brilliant red and it came out dark red so not very good, however the applicator pens are excellent, so fill them up with paint mixed from a automotive paint supplier

red_eye

Prothet_of_Doom wrote: »

The way I've done it is :

If it's gone to the metal: Small peice of 1200 Grit wet and Dry held on the end of a match stick with a little water. Remove any rust if it's gone down to metal.

Dry it

Primer and allow to dry.

T cut on a cloth to cut primer lower

Wash and Dry

Paint, allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, paint, allow to dry, T cut. Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry, Laquer allow to dry, T cut, wash, dry.

Basically, if you don't want a blister then, use T cut or other fine cutting compound to remove the excess.

If you don't care, just forget the T Cut.

I spent the best part of 2 days (most of that I was gardening, waiting for paint to dry) doing lots of little chips on a Yellow Mini.

Finally when you finish obtain really expensive wax, and get the car shinning.

would not t-cut between coats, as it polishes the surface leaving little for the paint to adhere to. use 1600 to flatten and re key the serface