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Roof Trusses in Attic (Fink/Regular style?)

Retro_Bunny
Posts: 650 Forumite


I'm trying to remove a redundant header tank from the attic, but it's jammed right up in the point on the roof by sitting on a wooden platform that is nailed to the trusses - and can't be manoeuvred out (pipework already gone)
The roofing timber (ie the bit that hold the roof up) sits in two V's creating three crawl spaces in the attic - so looking end to end the beams sit like a VV across the attic. Google tells me this is "FINK" style (on a 1976 detached house):
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/roof_trusses.htm
To support the tanks, a wood platform has been created by nailing lengths of timber right across these VVs.
Question - are these timbers part of the roof structure themselves and are they safe to remove to enable removal of tank?
I wouldn't question it, but the timber used is identical to the roof beams / trusses, so I'm unsure.
The roofing timber (ie the bit that hold the roof up) sits in two V's creating three crawl spaces in the attic - so looking end to end the beams sit like a VV across the attic. Google tells me this is "FINK" style (on a 1976 detached house):
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/roof_trusses.htm
To support the tanks, a wood platform has been created by nailing lengths of timber right across these VVs.
Question - are these timbers part of the roof structure themselves and are they safe to remove to enable removal of tank?
I wouldn't question it, but the timber used is identical to the roof beams / trusses, so I'm unsure.
--- Warning: Grumpy Old Man in Training ---
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Comments
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I'm not sure I fully understand the question but the "V's" are certainly structural and part of the roof truss.
The tank support platform which should only extend over 3 or 4 trusses to spread the weight of the tank (bit OTT just for a header tank) is not structural and can be removed. However if the support timbers extend over more than 3 or 4 trusses be careful in case they are bracing timbers which are designed to keep the trusses straight and upright.
If in doubt seek professional advice or post a photo.0 -
As above from teneighty. Tank supports are not structural so they can be removed. Two words of caution. Do this carefully without damaging the trusses, which are weak. (You will be trying to remove 75mm or 100mm nail fixings.) Second you may want to fix some 25x100 bracing to replace the removed tank bearers. This would depend on whether the builders used the tank bearers in lieu of this. This does happen.0
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With your advices in my head, I've had a longer look at the fixings and will be taking a slightly different tack - job for the weekend.
The timbers / braces which have been nailed with some meaty nails into the trusses look hard to remove without damaging the trusses as stated above.
Alternatively, I'm going to see if I can carefully cut the flatboard that's been put across the braces to support the tank and drop the tank through the resulting hole - leaving both the trusses and the braces (if they are braces) intact. Bit messier in terms of sawdust etc but safer in case they do turn out to be braces.
Many thanks for your assistance.--- Warning: Grumpy Old Man in Training ---0 -
2 questions.
1. why are you even bothering to remove the tanks if they are up & out of the way ?
2. have you measured the tanks & the loft hatch & are you going to be able to get them out the roof without cutting them up ?I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
My tank is disconnected but still in the loft as it is made of asbestos. A lot of them are. Getting it out would cost a small fortune.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0
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As above from teneighty. Tank supports are not structural so they can be removed. Two words of caution. Do this carefully without damaging the trusses, which are weak. (You will be trying to remove 75mm or 100mm nail fixings.) Second you may want to fix some 25x100 bracing to replace the removed tank bearers. This would depend on whether the builders used the tank bearers in lieu of this. This does happen.You might as well ask the Wizard of Oz to give you a big number as pay a Credit Referencing Agency for a so-called 'credit-score'0
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I too wouldn't bother removing it, but given It's a 70's house I'm guessing it's plastic?
You could saw the actual tank in half, then use the support for storing something else, there's money saving for you,:D
I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
Thanks for responses.
Some answers to clarify:
- Tank is plastic (I hadn't actually thought of sawing the tank - doh!)
- Tank is quite large, but I think will come out of the hatch lengthways, and would make a decent water butt for my allotment if I could get it out intact
- It's right in the middle point of a square attic near hatch, making it difficult to get in and out.
- Attic is about 6 foot to top point (I'm 5'6" and can just stand)
- Tank and support leaves about 2'6" of crawl space underneath to get to each of the two ends of the attic, meaning attic storage is fairly unuseable with it in - so would like it gone.--- Warning: Grumpy Old Man in Training ---0 -
They often don't go through a standard hatch by my experience, must be put up there early in the build, hence the hack it in 2 suggestion;);)I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
as above, yes if it's the orginal tank then they are put in before the roof is felted/tiledI'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0
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