We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
Sealing oak veneered doors & skirting

dinky73
Posts: 82 Forumite


Hi
I was hoping for some recommendations for sealing all the new doors, skirting etc in my house. The house has been refurbished and now has Worcester Engineered Oak doors and Oak veneered Burford skirting (from Howdens). My chippy has said that I really shouldn't leave them as is as they will get filthy hand marks etc. (they already have). The stickers on the doors say "do not use wax, oils or dye" on the doors.
Bearing in mind I have a whole 4 bed house of skirting and 13 doors, door frames and arcs to do what would everyone suggest I use. I like the colour the doors are and don't really want to change it too much. The house has also been carpeted so will make doing the skirting trickier.
Any advice, tips or product recommendations appreciated.
Thanks
Dinks
I was hoping for some recommendations for sealing all the new doors, skirting etc in my house. The house has been refurbished and now has Worcester Engineered Oak doors and Oak veneered Burford skirting (from Howdens). My chippy has said that I really shouldn't leave them as is as they will get filthy hand marks etc. (they already have). The stickers on the doors say "do not use wax, oils or dye" on the doors.
Bearing in mind I have a whole 4 bed house of skirting and 13 doors, door frames and arcs to do what would everyone suggest I use. I like the colour the doors are and don't really want to change it too much. The house has also been carpeted so will make doing the skirting trickier.
Any advice, tips or product recommendations appreciated.
Thanks
Dinks
0
Comments
-
Clear varnish?0
-
clear gloss varnish, ie the stuff with the consistency of honey
Will make the wood veneer just a little darker0 -
Ignore the stickers, as you have already found, if you don't seal with whatever you will never get everyday stains and muck ingrained.
Oil, lacquer or varnish, it will,all work, go do.I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
Clear varnish. Wax is not hard wearing and will get dirty or wear off. Oils can be good but may possibly loosen the glue on veneered items and dyes change the colour of the wood but are not a finish. Many dyes are also oil based so may affect the glue.
Why not ask the door makers what they recommend.
edit. Or just read their website.
http://www.howdens.com/doors-joinery-collection/internal-doors/internal-hardwood-doors/0 -
Great thanks everybody. Clear varnish it is then. I did look at the website which said lacquer for the doors but didn't have any suggestions for the skirting. Thought it was best to get advice first as I haven't found Howdens particularly helpful with stuff over the last few months.
While we are on the subject I have a solid oak dining table and also a solid oak sideboard. They both need sealing and my chippy has said oil or wax (he was erring more towards wax). Any suggestions for particular brands? Again I like the colour of both and don't want to change it too much. I'm particularly worried about have to wipe the dining table and it getting ruined. I don't want to cover it up with a tablecloth as the wood is so beautiful.
I'm off to try some varnish on an offcut of skirting and then spend a very long time varnishing :-)
Thanks0 -
I always seal oak with a thinned down gloss varnish.Use solvent based as gives a richer color and water based will raise the grain making it hard to rub down0
-
For DIY and pro finishing table tops, I'd say Patina all the way. On clean bare wood, use 2 thin coats of gel applied by rag, leaving 4 hours between coats. It dries quick enough, but leave 2 days to cure well. Lovely and smooth, doesn't ring mark with hot mugs... and a satin lustre brings out the markings in the wood.It is no fun getting part way through the decorating and you don't know the next step.0
-
andycrichton wrote: »For DIY and pro finishing table tops, I'd say Patina all the way. On clean bare wood, use 2 thin coats of gel applied by rag, leaving 4 hours between coats. It dries quick enough, but leave 2 days to cure well. Lovely and smooth, doesn't ring mark with hot mugs... and a satin lustre brings out the markings in the wood.
Is the product just called Patina? Not finding much on a google search. Thanks.0 -
After researching exactly the same thing we went for Osmo PolyX and I would recommend it to anyone. It is designed for floors but dont let that worry you. Very easy to apply. Expensive per tin but goes a long way. Recently finished the last of my 15 Worcester doors and they look great. The concern about oil lifting the veneer was a non-issue.0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 349.7K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.6K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 452.9K Spending & Discounts
- 242.7K Work, Benefits & Business
- 619.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.3K Life & Family
- 255.6K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 15.1K Coronavirus Support Boards