Killing lawn to start over?

Naf

Leif wrote: »

No, that has 96g/L glyphosate compared with 360g/L in the other one, so it is roughly 1/4 strength, for more money.

For the sake of getting something today I found the same one at a local general store for the same price as the online one - so still 4* the price overall I guess... but I've applied it to the lawn with a sprayer at 45ml/L, which I make to be 4.32g/L end product. I used just over half the bottle - probably sprayed it a bit thickly to start with 'till I got used to it.

cyclonebri1

Leif wrote: »

25ml in 5 litres is 50ml in 10 litres, giving 50/10000 x 360g/L = 5*360/1000 = 180/100 = 1.8g/L. The ready mixed spray I bought a few years ago had 7g/L. Roundup ready mixed spray has 15g/L. So 'such a strong product' is actually not that strong when diluted your way. The effectiveness varies with season and plant. Some such as bramble just sneeze, and carry on growing when it is applied. My grass took 3 weeks to die.

http://www.roundup.com.au/pdf/AUS_RU_RTU_1L%20FA.pdf

A watering can is a wasteful way to apply the product as most will end up as run off in the soil. A proper sprayer allows accurate spraying on a weed by weed basis, or more widely. Don't bother with the handheld sprayers with an integral nozzle, you need one with a spray wand. I was able to spray the lawn without hurting any plants in the beds, apart from a Digitalis which was at the very edge. Obviously do not apply on a windy day.

For bindweed some people mix it with wallpaper paste, and then paint it on. My late mother used it that way. I found that it did not kill field bindweed, probably because the root system was far too well established. I must have pulled out many tens of metres of thick storage root, and there is more down there.

The point I was making is that it is about 2.5x as strong a dose as is advised with the standard shop bought glyphosate for application by watering can, so a much stronger and hopefully effective solution.

We will have to differ on spraying glyphosate I still feel that a sprayer for concentrated glyphosate is dangerous when used in an effective concentration, a waft of air in the wrong direction and you will have zapped all neighbouring plants, been there and done it, I killed my garden tee shirt adorned

I think it was me who suggested to you to mix it with wallpaper paste, ;)
I guarantee it will eradicate bindweed if "pasted on", I had an outbreak of the stuff last year where I couldn't get at the roots, it was coming up through broken concrete. There were about 30 shoots visible over about a square metre, I didn't pull them, they would only have broken and come again, so I let them get about a ft long then painted every stem them with neat paste, dead within a few days and hasn't returned.

Smick100

I put some Rosate36 on my garden last week. I used 80ml in 4 litres and put it on in the sprayer on a garden 8m X 2m.

Five days later and I am seeing no signs of anything other than the weeds and assorted growing bits looking very healthy.

When the weedkiller was put on, the day was dry and I'd say it will have dried on to the vegetation although there has been quite a bit of rain since. Would the rain have a negative impact on the weedkiller?


Also, if (crossed fingers) the weedkiller kills all growing vegetation in the garden, how should I go about removing it?

Grass, weeds etc. Rip it up by hand and throw it away? Will a rake pull it up easily once it is dead?

cyclonebri1

Smick100 wrote: »

I put some Rosate36 on my garden last week. I used 80ml in 4 litres and put it on in the sprayer on a garden 8m X 2m.

Five days later and I am seeing no signs of anything other than the weeds and assorted growing bits looking very healthy.

When the weedkiller was put on, the day was dry and I'd say it will have dried on to the vegetation although there has been quite a bit of rain since. Would the rain have a negative impact on the weedkiller?


Also, if (crossed fingers) the weedkiller kills all growing vegetation in the garden, how should I go about removing it?

Grass, weeds etc. Rip it up by hand and throw it away? Will a rake pull it up easily once it is dead?

Provided it stayed dry that day it will have done it's work and been absorbed into the greenstuff. It will take longer than 5 days to show results, it does seem to work quicker the warmer it is as the growth of the plants seems to open them up to it's effects, give it a few weeks, the days of paraquat or other instant death chemicals have gone:D

What you do later is dependant on why you have killed the weeds.

Regardless raking is no good, it needs turning over by spade in prep for lawn/seed/turf etc.

In theory the roots and the dead tops could be left to rot, but raking them out after digging would be my approach.

Smick100

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Provided it stayed dry that day it will have done it's work and been absorbed into the greenstuff. It will take longer than 5 days to show results, it does seem to work quicker the warmer it is as the growth of the plants seems to open them up to it's effects, give it a few weeks, the days of paraquat or other instant death chemicals have gone:D

What you do later is dependant on why you have killed the weeds.

Regardless raking is no good, it needs turning over by spade in prep for lawn/seed/turf etc.

In theory the roots and the dead tops could be left to rot, but raking them out after digging would be my approach.

The intention is to get two tonnes of topsoil, put it on top, even things out and then put turfs of grass down.

If I just wait until the vegetation is dead, then dig squares of soil, turn those over so the grass / leaves are facing in to the soil, then put the topsoil, then the turfs, will that suffice?

Naf

Smick100 wrote: »

The intention is to get two tonnes of topsoil, put it on top, even things out and then put turfs of grass down.

If I just wait until the vegetation is dead, then dig squares of soil, turn those over so the grass / leaves are facing in to the soil, then put the topsoil, then the turfs, will that suffice?

You could probably have got away without killing the stuff to begin with. If its been 7 days then the Rosate should have gotten down to the roots by now, so you could cover all the existing vegetation up with cardboard/newspaper and just dump your topsoil right on that.

Leif

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

I think it was me who suggested to you to mix it with wallpaper paste, ;)
I guarantee it will eradicate bindweed if "pasted on", I had an outbreak of the stuff last year where I couldn't get at the roots, it was coming up through broken concrete. There were about 30 shoots visible over about a square metre, I didn't pull them, they would only have broken and come again, so I let them get about a ft long then painted every stem them with neat paste, dead within a few days and hasn't returned.

No, it wasn't you who told me about using it in wallpaper paste, my late mother used to do that over 10 years ago.

And as I have told you many times, I found that it killed hedge bindweed without problems, but field bindweed was more resistant, probably because the roots under my lawn are very long and very deep. If you remember you were not aware that there are two UK species of bindweed, and I think you are talking about hedge bindweed in your garden.

cyclonebri1

Smick100 wrote: »

The intention is to get two tonnes of topsoil, put it on top, even things out and then put turfs of grass down.

If I just wait until the vegetation is dead, then dig squares of soil, turn those over so the grass / leaves are facing in to the soil, then put the topsoil, then the turfs, will that suffice?

Yes it should be fine, the remains of the plants won't matter at that depth, any residue will dissipate over time.
The important thing which I was getting at was that if you intend to create a new lawn which you have now confirmed, the soil needs turning over to improve drainage, 2 tones of top soil won't be very deep when spread over your intended area.;)

cyclonebri1

Leif wrote: »

No, it wasn't you who told me about using it in wallpaper paste, my late mother used to do that over 10 years ago.

And as I have told you many times, I found that it killed hedge bindweed without problems, but field bindweed was more resistant, probably because the roots under my lawn are very long and very deep. If you remember you were not aware that there are two UK species of bindweed, and I think you are talking about hedge bindweed in your garden.

I apologise for that, it was a long protracted thread and a few years ago, but I do recall advising you to make a gel or a paste out of it, whether I mentioned wallpaper paste I don't recall. I did however introduce you to roseate 360, I'd only just discovered it myself, so far it has destroyed everything I have used it on.
As an experiment rather than remove a plum tree that I wanted out, I drilled the trunk, filled with Roseate and plugged it with a wine cork, that was late last year.
It hasn't exactly fallen over yet, but has made no leaf this year.

A handy tool for unwanted "nearby trees"??;);)

Yes I asked you about bindweed, and if you remember I also complimented you on your knowledge of weeds, I still don't know if I have 1 or both, none reappeared after the last treatment we discussed

poppysarah

What does the lawn actually look like? Got a photo?