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Age or Mileage

I can't afford a recent vehicle with low mileage.
I CAN afford
1) a more recent vehicle with high(er) mileage
2) OR an older one with low mileage.
Which would be better for me ?

I plan on doing 7,500 miles pa max. (very little city/town driving)

I'm useless at mechanics so too scared to go for bangernomics, plus more than enough experience of breakdowns and head-gaskets going and leaving me in the lurch.
Reliability is important as I may have to take my old mum (89) to hospital and supermarket is 4 miles away.
Also will be living in semi-rural location albeit with a mechanic nearby (300 yards away).
I live on low income but have a small inheritance to use for buying but running costs and repairs need to be kept low.
Thanks for your advice.
«1

Comments

  • GJ_WRX
    GJ_WRX Posts: 117 Forumite
    Age and mileage aren't as important as a service history!

    I'd go for something with higher miles as long as its been looked after. I'd also advise to get your local mechanic on the case to either look over a car for you or to even try and find.
  • bengalknights
    bengalknights Posts: 5,021 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    I would say budget dependant go for a ex company high mileage car as these should be well serviced etc
  • Most of the vehicles I'm looking at state Full Service History.
    Is it important that be Main Dealer serviced ?
    I'm also seeing references to a "printout" (rather than service book ?) - How does that work ?
    Are old MOTs important ?
  • Olza23
    Olza23 Posts: 90 Forumite
    The more receipts of work the better and no ask to see the service schedule booklet.

    It is better to have a main dealer service history as they are supposed to use official parts, but is not the end of the world just make sure that the big services done properly. Take a friend with you when you go to buy the car
  • forgotmyname
    forgotmyname Posts: 32,975 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Condition, Condition, Condition and theres another important one. Oh yes its CONDITION.

    Ignore the badge, Ignore the plate and look at the car, Its owner and the service history.

    Stamps in a book are useless if they are just a cheap oil change and not a genuine service. You want receipts for parts that have been changed.

    If a minor part gets fixed quickly and properly and the tyres are a decent brand then your better off with that that a car thats got a cheap set of remoulds or part worns and odd cheap brands. And a list of minor faults. Means they were likely to run it until it stops.
    Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...

  • Netwizard
    Netwizard Posts: 830 Forumite
    Condition, Condition, Condition and theres another important one. Oh yes its CONDITION.

    Ignore the badge, Ignore the plate and look at the car, Its owner and the service history.

    Stamps in a book are useless if they are just a cheap oil change and not a genuine service. You want receipts for parts that have been changed.

    If a minor part gets fixed quickly and properly and the tyres are a decent brand then your better off with that that a car thats got a cheap set of remoulds or part worns and odd cheap brands. And a list of minor faults. Means they were likely to run it until it stops.

    Pretty much what I was going to post :) always buy on condition.
  • addyboy1982
    addyboy1982 Posts: 134 Forumite
    Debt-free and Proud!
    Buy on condition, as stated twice above.

    Having said that, condition isn't just bodywork, it's mechanical condition, tyres, interior etc.. My last 4 cars have been 3-4 year old ex-company cars with fully stamped books and maintenance print-outs. They all had high mileage on and wore a few stone chips but the interiors were without exception immaculate, having only had one person in the car for the vast majority of the time. They had also been meticulously maintained, although I admit you have to sift through the !!!! before you find a gem.

    I've had my latest one for 18 months and have put 36k on it (now on 129k miles). The only unexpected repair has been a wheel bearing which will be fixed tomorrow.

    My previous one is now being driven by the OH, and whilst it cost £550 to put through the MOT this year it's the first unexpected expense since the alternator went 2.5 years ago. It's showing 146k miles now and was bought 4 years ago with 85k.

    With your annual mileage I'd buy the newest, cleanest and best maintained you can find and not worry about what's showing on the odometer.
    EX-DFW, NOW AN MFW!! O/S Mortgage = £71004 on 12/01/13 Overpaid 2013 = £1000 :eek:
    Balance now = £69155 :D MFD at start = 30/11/2033 now 31/03/2033

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  • LandyAndy
    LandyAndy Posts: 26,377 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts
    Most of the vehicles I'm looking at state Full Service History.
    Is it important that be Main Dealer serviced ?
    I'm also seeing references to a "printout" (rather than service book ?) - How does that work ?
    Are old MOTs important ?

    You don't necessarily get a service 'book' with stamps in it any more.

    The main dealer provides a printed record of all services done within the dealer network. A new full print is provided after each service (at least it is by my local Mazda dealer).
  • DominicH
    DominicH Posts: 288 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Agree about judging on condition. I think "number of journeys" is a better measure of a car's age than mileage or years. Unfortunately, that number is not recorded anywhere. You can get an idea by inspecting the driver's area closely. Look at the condition of the bolster (the side of the seat that gets rubbed when the driver gets in or out); the gear knob; the pedals; the other driving controls. If they are worn and scruffy, that car has had a hard life. And these things are difficult to hide with valeting.
    "Einstein never said most of the things attributed to him" - Mark Twain
  • justapoorboy
    justapoorboy Posts: 104 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    edited 23 April 2013 at 2:50PM
    Thanks all for your help, esp the printout info and your precise condition tips.
    I may have noticed the bolster, gear knob and pedals if bad, but now I know to specifically look out for them. Good tip, Thanks

    I'm more concerned about engine condition as I am the sort of idiot who usually buys a car based on it's colour !!! If I look at an engine I can just about tell where the spark plugs go. I had terrible trouble locating the dip stick on my Audi 80. My friends in London are even more clueless than me about cars.

    I get nervous about major repairs after 60k miles but I'm all out of date it seems. Vehicles now seem to be able to do a lot more mileage. I came across a small van today which has done 345,000 miles in 5 years !!!

    I haven't owned or driven a vehicle for 10 years - living so close to London's Central Charging zone. Here parking is a continuous and daily nightmare. There are speed and other cameras every 5 yards it seems. I only need one now coz of moving to the country where the mechanic is.

    I've now found a fabulous looking car 10 years old beaut condition by all the photos but only done 24,000 miles !!!! ???? Maybe there's a 1 or even a 2 missing from the front ??
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