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Ideas on how to fill old Oak plank movement

Over two large windows up to roof apex I have Oak planks approx 30mm thick and about 400mm wide.Built in 1928 they have warped and bowed and some of the gaps are up to 30mm+. I do not want to replace these as there is no rot etc and they are part of the character of the place.
However,we do get bees etc making nests in the roof and I wish to fill in these gaps.Impossible with wood infills due to irregular shape but did think of using small amount of expanding foam in gaps,when set cut to profile and paint to match boards.The boards are very securely fixed so don't expect foam to cause any further movement. Any better Ideas please?

Comments

  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    edited 12 April 2013 at 8:08AM
    Expanding foam is fine to fill the gap within the wall, but it degrades with daylight, within 2 years all exposed surfaces will have crumbled. You need something else.

    Can you elaborate when you say over?
    You say large widdows, but 30mm isn't much of a lintel if that's what we are talking, and 400mm is short for a large window?

    I may have that totally wrong, but the bit of advice above is correct.
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Like this Cy methinks:

    Stil_frantuzesc_surprins_intr_o_.jpg

    Except in place of timber beams with render in between OP has horizontal oak cladding filing the apex.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    Yes, that makes sense :beer:

    To be honest if it was me I would spray foam to fill the bigger part of the gaps, when dry clear out to about 1/2" below the surface, then use a waterproof flooring grade tile adhesive to flush of, then paint to match render.

    Whatever you fill the gap with ensure it slopes away from the house wall to run rain off
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Gastines2
    Gastines2 Posts: 116 Forumite
    Thanks for replies. Picture posted is about right but luckily on a bungalow.Length of planks is almost 4metres and height about 3 metres.At the moment rain has stopped play.
  • SailorSam
    SailorSam Posts: 22,754 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Could you find where the bees are getting in and cover it with some sort of mesh.
    Liverpool is one of the wonders of Britain,
    What it may grow to in time, I know not what.

    Daniel Defoe: 1725.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    Gastines2 wrote: »
    Thanks for replies. Picture posted is about right but luckily on a bungalow.Length of planks is almost 4metres and height about 3 metres.At the moment rain has stopped play.

    Well I'm lost again:D:D Give up.
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Seakay
    Seakay Posts: 4,269 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Gastines2 wrote: »
    Over two large windows up to roof apex I have Oak planks approx 30mm thick and about 400mm wide.Built in 1928 they have warped and bowed and some of the gaps are up to 30mm+. I do not want to replace these as there is no rot etc and they are part of the character of the place.
    However,we do get bees etc making nests in the roof and I wish to fill in these gaps.Impossible with wood infills due to irregular shape but did think of using small amount of expanding foam in gaps,when set cut to profile and paint to match boards.The boards are very securely fixed so don't expect foam to cause any further movement. Any better Ideas please?

    Can you access the area from the inside? If you don't have a problem with water getting in then I'd be inclined to cover the area with some sort of netting to keep the insects out.
    Perhaps something like this?
    http://www.harrodhorticultural.com/ultra-fine-insect-mesh-netting-pid7805.html?Aff=G002&gclid=CJ6Ty8fByLYCFTMdtAodEUYAIA

    I'd go with putting it on the inside as a preference so that it doesn't show and detract from the appearance of the wood
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