We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
Under Sink Electric Water Heater

Catbells
Posts: 863 Forumite


I need to put an electric under sink water heater in a bedroom for a sink which isn’t connected to the hot water system. There’s already one there but its broken and have been advised to get a 13 amp heater. There’s no toilet or shower in the room - just the sink for hand washing. I’ve looked at some heaters and they all seem to cost around £100 , like an Ariston model. Any alternative suggestions welcomed. Thanks.
0
Comments
-
I have a couple I removed...These are the type that keep the water at a constant temperature, much like a immersion heater.
They are not very cost effective & once the little tank is empty, you have to wait for it to heat up again.
These type also need a special basin tap.0 -
Thanks. I would prefer one that you don’t have to wait for to heat up as the one I looked at said 10 litres or varying quantities - not a great volume of water. If there is absolutely nothing else I guess I will have to go down this route but will wait to see if there is anything else which someone may have used and can recommend.0
-
-
I need to put an electric under sink water heater in a bedroom for a sink which isn’t connected to the hot water system. There’s already one there but its broken and have been advised to get a 13 amp heater. There’s no toilet or shower in the room - just the sink for hand washing. I’ve looked at some heaters and they all seem to cost around £100 , like an Ariston model. Any alternative suggestions welcomed. Thanks.
There are many on the market of varying capacities, but all will require a 13A electrical supply, which by the way must be installed in accordance with electrical safety regulations due to close proximity to a water source
What you need to consider is the output (Kw) of the heater, the bigger that is the quicker the heat recovery of the volume of water, but also the bigger the fuel bill
There are different types, both of which need additional plumbing, vented or unvented.
Vented will require a vented tap as the water expands when heated and the additional pressure needs to be released, and is also a safety feature should the thermostat fail.
These can or will often drip a little but thats due to the way they need to work as the tap is dual purpose, water outlet and expansion vent!
Unvented require an expansion vessel, and possibly a pressure reducing valve, plumbed in, and a pressure safety valve which will require plumbing in as a safety discharge and warning pipe should the heater over pressurise due to failure.
Unlike any other overflow these have to be solid piped, not plastic, and terminate in a safe position, as if they activate boiling water can be discharged.
Due to this an unvented can have an unsightly appearance due to the additional requirements:(
Vented would be my choice, if I had to make one, you just need to decide the Kw output and storage capacity required;)
I would also get a cost for just running a hot supply from the nearest hot water supply already there for the rest of the house:oSignature removed0 -
You could use an electric kettle? I've never extended the hot water pipes to the bedroom sinks, as making a single sink full each morning for face washing or shaving with the kettle (borrowed from the kitchen) is very easy.0
-
You could use an electric kettle? I've never extended the hot water pipes to the bedroom sinks, as making a single sink full each morning for face washing or shaving with the kettle (borrowed from the kitchen) is very easy.
You mean something like this? http://www.!!!!!!.com/pictures/13851/ghetto_water_heater.htmlIf it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
You mean something like this? http://www.!!!!!!.com/pictures/13851/ghetto_water_heater.html
The days of me doing that are (sadly) long gone. What a laarf tho.0 -
There are many on the market of varying capacities, but all will require a 13A electrical supply, which by the way must be installed in accordance with electrical safety regulations due to close proximity to a water source
What you need to consider is the output (Kw) of the heater, the bigger that is the quicker the heat recovery of the volume of water, but also the bigger the fuel bill
There are different types, both of which need additional plumbing, vented or unvented.
Vented will require a vented tap as the water expands when heated and the additional pressure needs to be released, and is also a safety feature should the thermostat fail.
As I said its only for hand/face washing few times a day so dont need huge output of Kw - def dont want a big fuel bill.
Havent heard of vented or unvented. What does this mean? Thanks.0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 349.7K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.6K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 452.9K Spending & Discounts
- 242.6K Work, Benefits & Business
- 619.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.3K Life & Family
- 255.6K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 15.1K Coronavirus Support Boards