Insulating a garden summer house

BuntyB

Hi guys, we are expecting delivery soon of a standard garden summer house, wooden t & g construction with t & g flooring, bit like a fancy shed

Anyway I would like ideas for improving it by insulating it so I can maybe use it for exercising in during the winter months. I realise it won't be. At least to try and keep it above freezing.

Has anyone got experience of anything similar? I had seen polystyrene insulation slabs in my local B & Q. Wondered if they would fit the bill?

Thanks:)

shegar

We put celotex insulation in ours and then covered it with cheap marine ply board, no damp at all now, and we leave a 3 seater sofa and armchair in there all the year round.............The summer house is only 10 x 10 and it didnt cost much at all....

I painted the ply board magnolia and its very light and airy.........

Furts

If the budget permits do opt for Celotex or Kingspan (or similar insulants). They beat polystyrene for insulation value.

If you line the summer house, a vapour barrier of polythene on the warm side of the boards is essential before fixing your plywood or plasterboard lining.

I would also recommend an air gap between the insulant and the T&G boards. This will minimize condensation/rot problems.

I am assuming the timber is treated. If not, do this before anything else.

Hope this helps.

Dukesy

Definitely kingspan over polystyrene.

On the lining side, if you want something a bit more attractive than ply or similar on your walls, you can buy MDF imitation beaded T&G sheeting from places like Travis Perkins. It's actually very realistic when painted, and looks a lot better.

Furts

Dukesy wrote: »

Definitely kingspan over polystyrene.

On the lining side, if you want something a bit more attractive than ply or similar on your walls, you can buy MDF imitation beaded T&G sheeting from places like Travis Perkins. It's actually very realistic when painted, and looks a lot better.

But we wary of mdf. It is fine in houses where temperatures and humidity are reasonably controlled. In an external structure I would have doubts. Certainly, a moisture resistant varity should be sought. But again, mdf window cill boards are said to be moisture resistant but I have seen many deteriorating ones.

Dukesy

Furts wrote: »

But we wary of mdf. It is fine in houses where temperatures and humidity are reasonably controlled. In an external structure I would have doubts. Certainly, a moisture resistant varity should be sought. But again, mdf window cill boards are said to be moisture resistant but I have seen many deteriorating ones.

Absolutely a good idea not to get it wet or damp and to air the building in which it is installed. However, OH and I own a company making sectional buildings and, over the years, have often used this material internally in buildings where customers have wanted to keep costs down. Never had any complaints about it and many of our customers come back for other buildings.

BuntyB

Evening

Thanks for your responses, will now look into kingspan & celotex. also leaving air gap etc. Would it be a good idea to insulate the floor as well.

Any suggestions re heating? OH wants to have a calor gas heater but I don't think this is the best or safest option. Having searched online, I was leaning towards oil filled electric heater. The heating is only for occasional use. It is our intention to have electric installed for lighting and a freezer.

tony6403

Calor gas does produce a fair amount of water vapour. Not really what you want in an insulated structure.
I would go for an electric fan heater as they are very controllable and give almost instant heat . This sort of thing

Gastines2

Worth remembering to insulate the floor. Just built a back porch area with timber frame and interior close boarded and about to do the same type of thing against a garage wall to use as summer house. I insulated the walls space with Rockwool but put a 50mm slab of Celotex under the floor which is exterior Stirling board. Also boarded the outside with 11mm before shiplap boarding to cut out any draughts etc. A bit belt and braces but even in this present weather it is not cold. Radiator to be installed later.
As another point this was built primarily to give us more space and is virtually a utility room as it now houses washing machine and freezer.As it is a fairly characterful old bungalow,built 1928, I used an old coloured leaded window,4 panels, to make up new frame and double glaze,plus new leaded glazed door to back garden to make it look as if it's been there for years. Lovely with the sun shining through. I did phone Building Control to ensure no permissions where required.Not facing any roads and at back of property and I checked with neighbour to make sure he was OK with it.

rj.wilkes

Hi ,Just came across your post, would a heater not cause the wood to shrink? I am about to do put a summer house up and i asked teh supplier of the summerhouse the same question, he advised me not to put heat in there, i have asked a few people and they all say the same. have you had any problem with the wood shrinking on your summerhouse?

gnomeo2

I spotted a blog about it the other day could be helpful for some hints depending on what route your gonna go down, would of put a link but it won't let me it was city centre sheds blog. There's bound to be more out there