Door or damp proof

Lexxi

Hi all, I posted last year to say I was having problems with damp in my house, I repaired a drain, had some work done to the gable end along with a few other jobs and it's not solved the problem, I think it may be getting worse.

I had someone in to have a look and I am waiting on a quote at the moment to damp proof the downstairs.
I've noticed that the front door lets in a huge breeze and is causing condensation in the entrance area. The upstairs wall above the front door looks like it has started to get damp on it too
The damp proofer that came out said that the damp is a combination of condensation and rising damp.
I'm not quite sure what to fix first, do I get my front door looked at and possibly replaced to stop the condensation or do I focus on the damp proofing?

I am going to relay and seal the flags in the back over Easter just to stop any water from getting through. I've also been in touch with the water board as the drains run parallel to my gable end, just in case there is a leak somewhere.

I'm on a pretty tight budget so I don't really know what to do first or how urgent it is.

The damp proofer has also suggested an electronic damp proofing, I've not heard of this before, I've googled it but can't find much about it.

Can anyone help?

Melaniep101

Might be worth getting an independent damp surveyor in rather than a damp proofing company. We were quoted £3.5k for a new damp proof course by a damp proofing company, turns out the problem isn't the dpc but a condensation issue. Cost to remedy is about £1500.

SailorSam

I've seen these programmes on Tv about Cowboy builders were they had people in to check your DPC, they had one of these little hand-held testers and the men were licking their thumbs and then holding the tester with their damp thumb across the probes to make it bleep.

muckybutt

The electric damp proofing has been around for a while, saying that not many folk know about it.

Basically a titanium wire is run around the perimiter wall, every 400mm or so an electrode is then implanted into the wall. The wire eventuallt comes back into the house where it is wired into a stepdown transformer which has to be permanently plugged into a socket, this introduces a very small +ive electric charge into the wall which repells any moisture.

I believe they call it electro osmosis damp proofing, not sure its a tried and tested method though, and you still have to have all the plaster hacked off and replastering done, so just the same as chemical or cream dpc-ing.

dampdaveski

Lexxi,
It is quite possible to have a combined rising damp and condensation problem, It's not common, but it is possible.
Remembering that I haven't seen your property, so all my advice really is, is an opinion.
I suggest sorting your door out first as a priority, this is making your house cold, will be contributing to the condensation (not causing it)

Do remember though that just replacing your front door is extremely unlikely to make your condensation problem go away

If your ground floor walls are covered in mould then it is unlikely there is a rising damp problem.

the electric damp proof course the man mentioned will be an electrosmotic DPC, this is a good system (the old passive Rentokil one was crap), it has a transformer, titanium coated wire, anodes and an earth rod. I use this type of system in randon stone filled walls or properties that have extra thick walls (300mm+)
Triton do a system as do Wykamol
http://www.tritonsystems.co.uk/prodb1.php#p9

So to prioritise

1. sort condensation, including door and you get a nice shiny door to feel good about
2. If you need to fit a PIV (positive input ventilation) fan such as a Nuaire Drimaster unit do that, or upgrade your extractor fans, or fit dry lining to the external walls, or a mixture

3. sort rising damp out last, there is a fair chance that if you get the condensation problem under control the 'rising damp; problem may disappear or be reduced considerably.

As Melanie says you could get an independant damp surveyor in, they'll charge anything between £100 - £250 (on average) maybe more depending where you are and you'll find them on the PCA website www.property-care.org

Good Luck
DD

Lexxi

Don't worry Sailor Sam, it is mostly definitely damp, I've had a meter on it myself.

I don't have mould, except for a bit around where the vestibule is behind the front door, this is the bit that has made it's way to the bedroom. The house is stone fronted and where the stone meets the brick, the pointing had all worn away so I had that done last year, but I might check again to make sure nothing was missed.
The wall is soaked in the vestibule and the cupboard under the stairs, which could also be condensation, there is a vent/hole at the end of the cupboard going straight outside.
The existing DPC is over 25 years old, possibly by quite a few years.
I have been given a quote for a chemical DPC, hack off, inject, tank and skim, £450, for the whole gable end.
If the price is correct, I was expecting an extra figure, then I may be able to get both done, just in time for summer!
I had make enquries about surveys, one was £60 one was £220.

FACTorFICTION?

For any company to come out and tell you that you need a new DPC based on NO proof other than a damp meter is fraud.

Damp meters do NOT detect rising damp. Indeed they are calibrated for use in timber yards and not on walls.

I would ask the builder/so called damp specialist to carry out Speedy Carbide testing. By all means install a new dpc or tank the walls, but first prove its needed.

You are more likely to win the lottery than have a true case of rising damp and to top it off injected DPC's dont work, plus your property more than likely has an origional one. Why inject a second? or in some cases 2 or 3 or 4.

Ring an independant NOT a damp specialist who is simply someone out there to make money.

FACTorFICTION?

Lexxi wrote: »

Don't worry Sailor Sam, it is mostly definitely damp, I've had a meter on it myself.

...a damp meter will say a wall is wet regardless of the moisture content. Damp meters only indicate surface moisture. Not rising damp.

You can get high moisture readings if the wall contains impuritys in the plaster such as salts but in most cases high readings are obtained as carlite light weight bonding plaster is used on older style properties that readily absorbs airbourne moisture. This being the wrong spec. You need to drill beyond the plaster and calibrate the brick beyond. The surface can be damp for dozensssss of reasons - all of which a "damp specialist" will keep hush hush!