Consumer unit replacement

CrazyM101

Hi all,

Our oven does not have an override switch in the kitchen so we can't turn it off. We have a 13 month old daughter who is now walking everywhere and touching everything and we don't want her to turn the oven on accidentally.

We also have an old Wlyex CU with plug in fuses and no MCB/RCD. So what we are doing currently is unplugging the fuse from the CU when we are not using the oven. Oddly however, the extractor fan and hob ignition do have switches in the kitchen!!

We are looking to get the CU replaced to the latest 17th edition standard along with a new cooker switch in the kitchen - this would obviously require some minor building work as well for removing the tiling, chiselling etc.

Does anyone have ideas of costs for this type of work and also what qualifications for electricians and certifications for the work should I be looking for? I need to be certain I'm getting a legit tradesman.

Do I even need to change the CU? Is it possible to change the fuses to ones with plug in MCBs and have the kitchen switch installed instead? I've attached a couple of pics to show you:





Your help is much appreciated.

Best Regards
Mumin

Hominu

Whilst you (well, a part p registered electrician) could install a 30A RCD for the cooker, it would be much better to change the CU as yours was obsoleted in 2001. They may want to check the wiring at the same time and perhaps suggest a partial or full rewire, depending on the age of the wiring.

Wywth

mumin999 wrote: »

Hi all,

Our oven does not have an override switch in the kitchen so we can't turn it off. We have a 13 month old daughter who is now walking everywhere and touching everything and we don't want her to turn the oven on accidentally.

We also have an old Wlyex CU with plug in fuses and no MCB/RCD. So what we are doing currently is unplugging the fuse from the CU when we are not using the oven. Oddly however, the extractor fan and hob ignition do have switches in the kitchen!!

We are looking to get the CU replaced to the latest 17th edition standard along with a new cooker switch in the kitchen - this would obviously require some minor building work as well for removing the tiling, chiselling etc.

Does anyone have ideas of costs for this type of work and also what qualifications for electricians and certifications for the work should I be looking for? I need to be certain I'm getting a legit tradesman.

Do I even need to change the CU? Is it possible to change the fuses to ones with plug in MCBs and have the kitchen switch installed instead? I've attached a couple of pics to show you:





Your help is much appreciated.

Best Regards
Mumin

There is nothing wrong with the existing CU. Whilst it does not meet current regulations for new installations, such CUs are in use in millions of homes up and down the country. Replacement fuses are still widely available should a new one ever be required.

Replacement of the CU will cost £100s.

However, what seems to be the issue is the lack of a suitable isloation switch for the oven. You could ask a suitable qualified electriacn to fit you one of these, which will be much cheaper and will prevent the need for you to keep running to the CU everytime to switch the oven on and off.

You could end up damaging the existing CU if you continue to do what you currently are doing as they were never designed for such use.

st999

It would be cheaper to train your daughter not to switch the cooker on.

Good job you don't have a gas cooker.

Gromitt

Wywth wrote: »

There is nothing wrong with the existing CU. Whilst it does not meet current regulations for new installations, such CUs are in use in millions of homes up and down the country. Replacement fuses are still widely available should a new one ever be required.

Whilst I agree with you, if I had a 13 year old daughter running around (heck, even if I didn't), I would want the added safety of a consumer unit which contained an RCD and MCBs, rather than just a bit of fuse wire.

At the same time, it might be a good idea to install the cooker isolation switch, or maybe install a gate across the kitchen door to stop your daughter going in there, particularly whilst the cooker is in use.

CrazyM101

Thanks for all the replies.

"Does anyone have ideas of costs for this type of work and also what qualifications for electricians and certifications for the work should I be looking for? I need to be certain I'm getting a legit tradesman."

Seems like I need a Part P qualified electrician - do they carry a card or a registration number that I can check is valid online? Should I be using any of the below sites to find someone for example:
http://www.niceic.com/
ratedpeople
http://www.competentperson.co.uk/

Any other suggestions for finding the right person?

Main problem is to get an isolation switch in the kitchen and although I could just get this done on its own, I might as well have the other electrics checked out as well and upgraded to RCDs as you can never be too careful.

And yes good idea about training my 13 month old daughter not to turn on the oven (I do also have a gas hob) but I cannot risk taking the chance no matter what the cost.

Thanks
Mumin

Justicia

mumin999 wrote: »

Seems like I need a Part P qualified electrician - do they carry a card or a registration number that I can check is valid online? Should I be using any of the below sites to find someone for example:
http://www.niceic.com/
ratedpeople
http://www.competentperson.co.uk/

Any other suggestions for finding the right person?

As discussed previously on MSE, there is no such thing as "Part P qualified." No-one needs to be, or even can be, qualified to the Building Regulations (the home of Approved Document P), however, individuals planning to carry out relevant works must comply with the requirements of "Part P;" including the notification to the Local Authority's Building Control of work to be undertaken, where necessary.

http://www.competentperson.co.uk/ would be a good place to start, however you can (if you wish) use the individual Competent Person Schemes websites (you mentioned the NICEIC in your post - they are just one of the schemes);

http://www.niceic.com
http://www.napit.org.uk
http://www.elecsa.co.uk

Although some may be more well known than others, they are all much the same in regards to what they cover, though some folks will have their 'favourite' and that in itself is cause for (loooooong) debate!!

There are not currently official ID cards carried, however you can check their registration with the relevant scheme; check their website, van, documents, for the logo of the scheme that they are registered to and then check with the scheme.

ETA: Never had use of Rated People, however there are some "interesting" threads regarding the website across MSE, if you do a search!

Hope that helps

Justicia

^^ If I've missed anything, I am sure that the resident 'tricians will make an addition :beer::D

Gromitt

I would have thought the NIC EIC factsheet would cover it all:
http://www.niceic.com/Uploads/File1247.pdf

Typing "New consumer unit" into myhammer.co.uk seems to state that the average price is approximately £250 - £300 for a new consumer unit, going upto £500 for places like London. You can then ensure they know what they are doing through other people commenting on their work.

Don't forget anyone working on your house needs liability insurance - if they can't prove it, don't let them in!

CrazyM101

thanks Justicia for your comprehensive reply and gromitt for your advice - I had to attend to other things around the house but am now making enquiries with a couple of leccies to carry out the work imminently

paulmapp8306

Seems about right. CUS are around £65 from B&Q. 2 to 3 hours to fit at £40-£60/ hour (dependant on location) and Part P certification (that must be carried out by an electrician who is qualified to test and certify installations) - which is usually around the £90 mark. That would come to around £240 to around £400 ish.

The fitting of the isolator is easy IF you can install it in a non tiled area. Putting it in a tiled area is more difficult - but not impossible by any means. £100 generally would be plently for that work as a one off. If its being done with the CU change it should be much less (an hours work? £50 or so) as the sparky is already there and doing a certification.