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Suggestions for an economical run around?

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Hi

I'm going to have to purchase a car shortly for travelling to and from work. My commute will be a round trip of 36 miles per day and public transport is not an option.

I'm looking to spend no more than in the region of £5-6000 and the car will also be used as a general run around. I don't anticipate on going on many long journeys in it and it will be just me using it.

Can someone recommend a smallish car that is (a) economical (b) cheap to insure and (c) cheap to tax? I'm in my early 40's, have 8 years no claims and no points on my licence.

I'm not much good with cars but I'd wondered about the Ford Ka, Citroen C1, Toyota Aygo something like that?

I'm open to all suggestions.

Many thanks.
«1

Comments

  • steve-L
    steve-L Posts: 12,981 Forumite
    Aygo is probably most reliable of that bunch.....
    For £5-6000 however you could get a 'better built' car ex-fleet.

    You're looking at about 8,000 miles/yr.... commuting and if you have the car its reasonable to expect another 1000 or so......

    I'd forget cheap to tax......
    1) Its a tiny part of running the car
    2) Low tax cars cost more
    3) Who knows when the govt changes the bands??? (again)

    So long as it is less than £200/yr that means a far larger pool of cars to choose from.

    According to the govt site I downloaded the spreadsheet for 2006 cars and filtered at CO2 emissions <120 (Band C)
    I get 72 of 2553 that meet that criteria.... most boxes on wheels.
    (what I call disposable cars where the engine is not designed to do over 100,000 and the body made to the same)

    1151 are less than 185 CO2 ... way more choice and includes cars designed for fleet purchase that will do 1/2 million miles with care and attention.

    (Accords, Mondeos, Avensis etc.)
    £5000 will buy a very good condition 2006ish

    Equally if you look at maintenance costs, yes a 2l D takes more oil than a 1.2 petrol so its a BIT more to service.... but most of maintenance is LABOUR..... e.g. Your clutch for a 1.2 petrol might cost £200 but labour might be £500

    A big diesel will need DMF replacing to but your still looking at <£600 on parts for both.... and £500 in labour (unless you buy a BMW or Merc etc. with RWD then labour will be considerably cheaper!)

    My Accord 2.2 TDCi did 111,000 on first clutch then another 70,000 until the DMF needed replacing (and added new clutch at time as it was an extra £200) .... My 330D has done 125,000 on first clutch....expected clutch and DMF at £800 or less (using BMW specialist)

    (A Civic 2.2 TDCI will cost exactly the same for the clutch and DMF as the Accord) although Civics are pretty solid ....

    So buying a car because parts are cheap usually means...
    1) Cheap parts go more often
    2) Cheap parts still have same labour cost

    Hence IMHO better to go for more expensive parts that last longer!






    http://carfueldata.dft.gov.uk/new-vehicle-tax.aspx
    Band A Up to 100 £0.00 Not available £0.00 Not available
    Band B 101 - 110 £20.00 Not available £10.00 Not available
    Band C 111 - 120 £30.00 Not available £20.00 Not available
    Band D 121 - 130 £100.00 £55.00 £90.00 £49.50
    Band E 131 - 140 £120.00 £66.00 £110.00 £60.50
    Band F 141 - 150 £135.00 £74.25 £125.00 £68.75
    Band G 151 - 165 £170.00 £93.50 £160.00 £88.00
    Band H 166 - 175 £195.00 £107.25 £185.00 £101.75
    Band I 176 - 185 £215.00 £118.25 £205.00 £112.75
    Band J 186 - 200 £250.00 £137.50 £240.00 £132.00
    Band K * 201 - 225 £270.00 £148.50 £260.00 £143.00
    Band L 226 - 255 £460.00 £253.00 £450.00 £247.50
    Band M Over 255 £475.00 £261.25 £465.00 £255.75
  • If I was looking for a reliable run-around, I would be drawn to the VW Polo, maybe an early 06 (new shape), possibly 1.4 TDi. I have had them in the past & always thought they were a really good comfortable reliable car for the money.

    I find the C1 & the Aygo very basic & uncomfortable (seat wise anyway) & slightly 'tinny'. The Aygo is ok but I wouldn't want to drive everyday in one.

    Regards
  • This is the point where I jump in and suggest the one everybody forgets - Fiat Panda.

    I won't argue its case here, just google a few reviews for the 2004 - 2011 Panda; yes it's basic, but it's surprisingly well made (plasticky inside though), and apart from a common Fiat problem of failing power steering pretty reliable and cheap to run. You can get refurbished power steering columns from BBA-Reman so while it'll hurt it's not as expensive as Fiat parts.

    It's a good compromise between size and space; five doors, two adults can sit in the back reasonably OK. The engine's more refined than you'd expect and it'll happily cruise 70-80 on the motorway. My wife has a 61-reg which I regularly take on a 300-mile round trip with no problems at all.

    They've been around since 2004 and seem to wear well.

    (EDIT: and apart from the rear suspension they're mechanically almost identical to the 1.2 Fiat 500 which was based on the Panda. As indeed was the current generation Ford Ka, all three were/are built in the same Polish factory).
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  • Hintza
    Hintza Posts: 19,420 Forumite
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  • fivetide
    fivetide Posts: 3,811 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    I wouldn't be buying a diesel on the miles you will be doing. you will pay more for it and not get the cost back.

    The 1.2 petrol option and small car like a Clio etc would seem to be the sensible option, especially if it is just you going to be using the car.

    We've had a 1.0 micra for years. It has cost nothing to run in the last five years and anyone who knows the right end of a spanner could work on it.

    Friend of the family had one as his work car as he had to use his own car for trips to various job sites and claim the petrol back. It is did 200,000 miles and only ever needed brakes, and exhaust and oil/filter changes.
    What if there was no such thing as a rhetorical question?
  • daveyjp
    daveyjp Posts: 13,552 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 22 February 2013 at 4:43PM
    Don't assume because the Aygo etc are group 1/2 insurance they will be cheapest to insure. We have just sold ours, bought a new car in insurance band 9 and we have had a 10% refund on our premium.

    I suspect its because the Aygo etc are favoured by younger drivers, because they are low insurance group, but claims on them are higher.

    Hyundai i10, Kia Picanto can both be had for your budget and ones 1-2 years old will have plenty of warranty. No cambelts to change either.
  • steve-L
    steve-L Posts: 12,981 Forumite
    fivetide wrote: »
    I wouldn't be buying a diesel on the miles you will be doing. you will pay more for it and not get the cost back.
    How did you calculate that?

    What age of car, what depreciation and over how long?
  • steve-L
    steve-L Posts: 12,981 Forumite
    fivetide wrote: »
    Friend of the family had one as his work car as he had to use his own car for trips to various job sites and claim the petrol back. It is did 200,000 miles and only ever needed brakes, and exhaust and oil/filter changes.

    200,000 on original clutch? Doesn't sound right to me?
    What tyres is he running?
    No transmission fluid or suspension??

    I'd guess if he keeps all receipts he will have needed something... perhaps not much or often ...my Honda has 180,000 and has been IMHO reliable but it still needs new tyres (obviously its heavier and more powerful so will need more but 50,000 is good for the two that drive) even in a Micra.
  • steve-L
    steve-L Posts: 12,981 Forumite
    steve-L wrote: »
    How did you calculate that?

    What age of car, what depreciation and over how long?

    I just put in 2 opposites to
    http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/cars/article-1633412/Calculator-True-cost-running-car.html

    BMW 330D 2006 with 100k = £6000, extra urban = 50 mpg fuel cost @1.40, annual milage 10,000 depreciation of 3500 over 6 years and 60,000 miles (my car so I know the price I paid)
    (£3500 price of a 11 year old 330 with 180,000 on autotrader)
    Insurance = 400, road tax = 180
    vs

    Nissan Micra 2007 with 30k, 1,4 petrol = £6000 (autotrader), extra urban = 50 mpg, fuel cost @ 1.30 annual milage 10,000 depreciation of 4500 over 6 years and 60,000 miles insurance = 180, road tax = 80

    TOTAL COST of BMW 330D = 2856.21/yr
    TOTAL COST of MICRA 1,4 = 2778.63/yr

    So correct the 3L BMW is not worth buying when you can have a Micra and save £80/yr. Over 6 years that's £480 saved with the Micra so long as it doesn't break or need a new clutch at 100,000 ... which isn't then end of the world but costs more than the car is worth.
  • Nissan Micra 2007

    Also has uncomfortable seats...., I'm a slip of a girl & notice these things, however, fairly cheap insurance wise...
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