Electric Hob on Cooker Switch But Oven on Main Ring??

cwcw

We are having a new kitchen fitted and got an electrician (NICEIC) round today to wire up the oven and hob.

We had an electric oven and gas hob before, the oven being wired up to the cooker switch (CCU?) on a dedicated cooker circuit. The hob had an ignition wired up to the ring main.

The electrician has wired the hob up to the CCU. He hasn't wired the oven up but has suggested that this can just be connected to the cable that used to feed the old hob ignition by the kitchen fitter or ourselves. I was at work at the time so my wife accepted this (not sure I would have).

Surely this isn't right? I thought the cooker (hob and oven) had to be linked to the cooker switch to be easily isolated? I've read mixed opinions on whether a normal circuit is sufficient for an oven but even if it was I thought the cooker switch was a legal requirement?

Am I being over the top? My wife seems to think I am but it just doesn't seem right to me, and I don't want the risk of fire or electricution in our house.

cwcw

PS. Hob is up to 6kw, oven up to 3.4kw and the cooker circuit is, I think, 32amp (the consumer unit says "B32" for that circuit).

patriick

cwcw wrote: »

PS. Hob is up to 6kw, oven up to 3.4kw and the cooker circuit is, I think, 32amp (the consumer unit says "B32" for that circuit).

Your electrician is correct.

It's normal in your case for the hob to go on the 32amp (cooker) circuit and the single oven to be connected to the ring main via a 13amp (fused) circuit.

The alternative is to run another circuit for both (40amp).

I'm doing the same thing for an induction hob in my kitchen. Hob on 32amp circuit and the single oven on an old immersion heater circuit (15amp).

I believe some single ovens actually come with a 13amp plug!

cwcw

patriick wrote: »

Your electrician is correct.

It's normal in your case for the hob to go on the 32amp (cooker) circuit and the single oven to be connected to the ring main via a 13amp (fused) circuit.

The alternative is to run another circuit for both (40amp).

I'm doing the same thing for an induction hob in my kitchen. Hob on 32amp circuit and the single oven on an old immersion heater circuit (15amp).

I believe some single ovens actually come with a 13amp plug!

But even if technically possible, what about the fact there is no isolator switch for the oven? It would just be hard wired to the mains circuit with the only switch being at the consumer unit.

Bogtrotter

Your 32 amp supply can supply 32x230 = 7320 Watts... not enough for hob and oven on full load.

So unless you want to run a second high current supply there's probably no other way of covering the maximum possible current draw.

patriick

cwcw wrote: »

But even if technically possible, what about the fact there is no isolator switch for the oven? It would just be hard wired to the mains circuit with the only switch being at the consumer unit.

If it has a fused switched spur or on a 13amp plug it can be isolated. In my case I will have a double pole switch on the wall wired to a 13 amp socket in the cupboard next to the oven.

p.s. I'm not doing this myself, my electrician is doing the work!

cwcw

Bogtrotter wrote: »

Your 32 amp supply can supply 32x230 = 7320 Watts... not enough for hob and oven on full load.

So unless you want to run a second high current supply there's probably no other way of covering the maximum possible current draw.

What about upgrading the cooker circuit to 40amp and running them both from the existing switch? That's what I was expecting to be honest.

patriick

cwcw wrote: »

What about upgrading the cooker circuit to 40amp and running them both from the existing switch? That's what I was expecting to be honest.

I think I mentioned that

You would have to put in a 40amp cable and a new switch tho!

cwcw

patriick wrote: »

I think I mentioned that

Yes, you did

But either upgrading to 40amp and wiring both in, or leaving on ring main but adding a new isolator switch, would require a qualified electrician and certification, right?

I just don't understand why the electrician would leave it half done.

patriick

cwcw wrote: »

Yes, you did

But either upgrading to 40amp and wiring both in, or leaving on ring main but adding a new isolator switch, would require a qualified electrician and certification, right?

I just don't understand why the electrician would leave it half done.

Yes you need a qualified electrician to do the work if you want a new circuit. If the instructions for the oven say it can be wired to a 13amp plug you could do this yourself and plug it into an existing socket. Otherwise if you need a fused spur or a new more convenient socket you would need the electrician to do this.

All kitchen electrics have to be done by a qualified electrician and notified to the local authority. I believe some changes are being made to the regulations in April to allow some work to be done yourself but new circuits would still need a qualified electrician.

Bogtrotter

cwcw wrote: »

I just don't understand why the electrician would leave it half done.

I don't think it's a case of him leaving it half done, it's probably a case of providing the most cost effective solution. To add/upgrade a supply would have cost a lot more together with the possible hassle and inconvenience of moving furniture, lifting floor coverings and boards in order to lay new cable.

I'm sure your electrician will be happy to oblige if you tell him what you want.